My 1998 V70 GLT Rebuild Project

[cn90]

I will check with the post office on the shipping cost if you are interested.

[bmdubya1198]

I will check with the post office on the shipping cost if you are interested.

I'll let you know in the next day or two. I might be getting a few parts this weekend, and whatever I have that I still need, I'll let you know.

[bmdubya1198]

As of today, I have completely vacuumed and shampooed the carpets, cleaned and conditioned the leather, cleaned all the glass, cleared out all of the broken pieces in the engine bay, straightened out the fender frame, and added a Little Tree . The carpet is still dirty, but it looks much better than it did.
The fender is pretty hammered now, but it's much straighter than it was. Took a lot of hammering and pulling with a cable puller. Just about ready to get everything put back together!
Don't know what that stain is. And not sure I want to.

Not perfectly clean, but it's better.


Wish I had a before picture of the frame. It was a lot worse than it is here.

That's what I mean by hammered...





All cleaned up for the most part.

[bmdubya1198]

Also, I came across this thread (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=58635) because my lock won't work manually, but it works with the power locks and remote. My lock pin disconnected too, but I fixed that today. Only problem is that my key doesn't feel like it's going all the way into my lock cylinder, and it won't turn. Does anyone know where that tab is to release the cylinder?
I see the rod he's talking about, and it's definitely not properly seated, but I don't see how you can get in there to see anything.

[Ozark Lee]

The tab is behind a plastic cover plate next to the lock cylinder on the edge of the door. Behind the cover are two screws that hold the door handle on and in between them is a hole. The release tab is through that hole.

You might have trouble releasing it though if the key isn't going all the way in since the key (and the proper key at that) has to be inserted to get the cylinder to release.

...Lee

[bmdubya1198]

The tab is behind a plastic cover plate next to the lock cylinder on the edge of the door. Behind the cover are two screws that hold the door handle on and in between them is a hole. The release tab is through that hole.

You might have trouble releasing it though if the key isn't going all the way in since the key (and the proper key at that) has to be inserted to get the cylinder to release.

...Lee

Hmmm... I don't have an original key. Mine is a black Ilco key. It looks like an original Volvo key (my cousin has an S70), and it works in the ignition and trunk, but not the driver door. I'm think the problem is within the lock cylinder. The "door" on it isn't closed all the way and the last owner painted over it for some ridiculous reason. Not that I think that's what's causing the problem, but I assume is jammed up somehow.
I thought that's where it was. It must be that the key isn't engaging it, because it won't push in. I'll have to mess with it a little more.

[obayha]

It might be worth pulling up the rear carpet at some point. Not hard to do. The things I found under mine, is where a lot of the old car smell was coming from. Big plus is, I found over $2.00 in change.
My Misses took the Bissell to it and the pressure washer and air dried it. Came out pretty good. I might still have my other one. I'll check and bring it down and you can practice on it if you want.
Shane

[bmdubya1198]

I found about 36 cents across my carpets, haha. I'd like to get a Bissell. My BMW could use a deep cleaning too.

[cn90]

Also, I came across this thread (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=58635) because my lock won't work manually, but it works with the power locks and remote...

There are 2 reasons for this:

1. P.O. replaced the ignition tumbler (to the right of steering wheel), but instead of using new, he/she used another car as the donor. When this happens, you use the "new" key to start the car.
Since the "new" key only fits the ignition but not the door, the P.O. elected to use the remote to open the door.

2. As Ozark Lee said, someone replaced the LF actuator (aka latch). When you slide in the new actuator, you need to be careful as the door lock (where you insert the key) has a tab that needs to engage with the actuator's "flat slot" (just look carefully at the actuator, you will see a flat slot). Been there done that.
So, the only way to do this is to remove the trim panel to give you access to the actuator (info in forum). You will likely break a few door panel trim clips, so get a few extra plastic clips ahead of time.

[bmdubya1198]

Also, I came across this thread (https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=58635) because my lock won't work manually, but it works with the power locks and remote...

There are 2 reasons for this:

1. P.O. replaced the ignition tumbler (to the right of steering wheel), but instead of using new, he/she used another car as the donor. When this happens, you use the "new" key to start the car.
Since the "new" key only fits the ignition but not the door, the P.O. elected to use the remote to open the door.

2. As Ozark Lee said, someone replaced the LF actuator (aka latch). When you slide in the new actuator, you need to be careful as the door lock (where you insert the key) has a tab that needs to engage with the actuator's "flat slot" (just look carefully at the actuator, you will see a flat slot). Been there done that.
So, the only way to do this is to remove the trim panel to give you access to the actuator (info in forum). You will likely break a few door panel trim clips, so get a few extra plastic clips ahead of time.

Yeah, my door panel is already separated into two pieces and has several broken clips. I plan on repairing or replacing that eventually.
I'm going to have to re-position the lock into that slot. Hopefully that will fix it.