06 XC70 Where are the marks for cam gears?

Crumpler · Post by **Crumpler** » 15 Oct 2015, 20:23

Hey guys, I'm just getting started on a TB replacement.
Car is running fine but maintenance job.
I can't find any marks, of any kind, on the cam gears to match to the notches on the TB cover???
Did the factory mark them on assembly?
There are symbols on the tabs of the gears, initially I was looking at the ".." mark, but they would never match up. I've cranked it around several times. How do I find TDC?
I'm confused, so I have not pulled old belt off yet.
Any help is appreciated and thanks ahead of time

Crumpler · Post by **Crumpler** » 16 Oct 2015, 09:15

Ok, I got out my electron microscope and found the timing marks on cam gears and crank.

In my 928, I had a flywheel lock to get the pulley off the crank. In the walkthrough I have for the Volvo, nobody is mentioning the need for that. How do you get the four 10mm and 30 mm loose without rotating the crank?

mrscullini · Post by **mrscullini** » 16 Oct 2015, 10:03

Crumpler wrote:Ok, I got out my electron microscope and found the timing marks on cam gears and crank.

In my 928, I had a flywheel lock to get the pulley off the crank. In the walkthrough I have for the Volvo, nobody is mentioning the need for that. How do you get the four 10mm and 30 mm loose without rotating the crank?

i used a pneumatic impact driver.

i haven't done the t-belt on my '05, however, you may be able to remove the belt without removing the crank pulley. i'm not a big fan of this, more because of possible damage to the new belt during installation.

Crumpler · Post by **Crumpler** » 16 Oct 2015, 13:58

mrscullini, thanks for the insight man. For some reason I thought this would be easier then the Porsche, shame on me, lol.

I just got everything off with the impact driver, had to soak that 30 for awhile with PB blaster, it was a bear.

If possible, can you keep me on your radar screen, as a rookie I might get myself in trouble again.
Regards, Dave.

zanzabar · Post by **zanzabar** » 16 Oct 2015, 17:31

Dave, I just went through the same. That 30mm nut on the crank pulley was a doozy! I threaded two of the four small pulley bolts through a long gear tool to keep the crank from turning and then needed about 5' of breaker bar and all my strength to bust it loose.

Note to self: get impact wrench someday.

Crumpler · Post by **Crumpler** » 16 Oct 2015, 18:51

zanzabar wrote:Dave, I just went through the same. That 30mm nut on the crank pulley was a doozy! I threaded two of the four small pulley bolts through a long gear tool to keep the crank from turning and then needed about 5' of breaker bar and all my strength to bust it loose.

Note to self: get impact wrench someday.

Ok Z, that was a clever idea I must say. I was looking at mine today for about 20 min trying to come up with a plan. At one point I was going to fabricate a plate to bolt in two of the four 10 mm holes and then crank around until it jammed on the lower suspension arm with my 8 ft cheater. Then the PB blaster apparently kicked in and saved me from myself...

Yeah, I was ready to rock and roll and then noticed that I had the wrong tensioner in my FCP kit

Was 2006 a split production year?
I guess I will try and score the right one at the dealer this weekend.
Regards.

Post by **chrism** » 17 Oct 2015, 13:32

If your engine is a 2.5 five cylinder you shouldn't have to remove the the crank damper pulley. Just remove the plastic dust cover from the bottom side right behind the pulley. Two 10mm bolts as I recall.

Crumpler · Post by **Crumpler** » 17 Oct 2015, 17:03

Ugh, I didn't even entertain that as an option.
Sigh. that makes sense doesn't it.

Post by **oragex** » 17 Oct 2015, 17:22

Like this guy (he does it real quick because it's probably not his first)

Crumpler · Post by **Crumpler** » 20 Oct 2015, 21:13

You guys, this is a different question buried in this thread but I have belt on and marks look good.
Specifically I'm confused about setting the tensioner.
By my guide the center screw set finger tight, then using allen head rotate tensioner face clock wise until arm positioned in middle of the bracket. Then tighten center screw.
He's my issue: tension looks good but allen hole is at eight o'clock.
The guide made it sound as if the position of the allen hole is important and they said six oclock.
In my pics of the old tensioner, before I broke everything down, it is positioned at one oclock.
How much does this matter? Tension feels good and engine turns fine.

About eighty degrees in garage.