1998 V70 NA Failed Emissions High CO and HC at idle

evilxsystems · Post by **evilxsystems** » 01 Dec 2015, 09:39

rspi wrote:Come on guys, give him the magic answer. You guys know that no one wants to do the proper maintenance. Why else would he have paid top dollar ($4000) for the car. In the time that has been spent chasing this post, the system could have been replaced. It literally can be done in 2 hours on a NA car.

I wish I had the skills to do it in 2 hours

and my wife got the car for $3600...8 years ago

Post by **misha** » 01 Dec 2015, 10:06

60k is long overdue for driving the car which was running rich for months.
Piston rings,valves(engine) can be damaged too because of running rich condition which was left unattended for that long.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 01 Dec 2015, 10:51

It couldn't be that hard to do the PCV on an N/A car. You're options are read up and DIY, or bring it to a shop and bend over.

Post by **tryingbe** » 01 Dec 2015, 11:11

evilxsystems wrote:
tryingbe wrote:I'd say you'll need a catalytic converter too. Not sure what the laws are in Seattle, it's $80 for a mangaflow cat and then labor to install here in AZ.
how in the hell do you get a CAT for $80?!? the stock one is like a grand! Platinum is fucking expensive, I can't see how they can do that. But I'm sure replacing or cleaning the cat would help, but I'd thought it would be crazy expensive. How hard would it be to pull off the old cat and install a non-OEM one? It's the original cat, I've heard they get so hot that they can be basically welded on.

I don't know how big the n/a pipes is. I only uses 3 inch replacement for my cars.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-94005
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-94006

There is no cleaning the cat.

Cut, fit, and weld.

You heard wrong. The factory cat is welded to the downpipe.

This is from a 97 850 turbo.

This is from a 98 V70 turbo AWD.

I'd fix whatever vacuum/pcv system you still have trouble with, take it to test, if it doesn't pass, replace the cat.

Post by **erikv11** » 01 Dec 2015, 12:06

LOL at Robert's comment ... it can take a couple hours just to make sure you have the right parts, if you haven't done it before. Then you wait for them to arrive ... then you struggle with that one IM bolt for 40 minutes alone ... haha yeah, right, OP could have it done by now

. It is simple disassemble-assemble but there are a lot of parts involved and a lot of things to check, it is entirely worth it to do it carefully. Be sure you have everything you need, including the gaskets, before you start.

Any hose that connects to the vacuum tree or to the throttle body is a potential source of a vac leak, I would start by checking (or just replacing) all of those. Check the vacuum tree itself as well for cracks and where it mounts to the intake; starting fluid can be useful to find a leak but it is not a guaranteed detection method.

evilxsystems · Post by **evilxsystems** » 01 Dec 2015, 12:18

bmdubya1198 wrote:It couldn't be that hard to do the PCV on an N/A car. You're options are read up and DIY, or bring it to a shop and bend over.

Bend over is right...I called the shop I've taken it to before and they wanted $850 to service the PCV....they wouldn't even do the CAT because Volvo doesn't make them any more.

Anyway I pulled out and discarded the flame shield and replaced all the vacuum lines on the top side. The flame trap was very plugged up. I haven't done the glove test again but it looked like pressure was still venting from the dip stick.

At this point I think I'm just gonna go to one of those certified shops right next to the emissions station. In WA if you spend over $150 bucks diagnosing or repairing the problem and then register the car with a waiver. Hopefully I can just get $150 worth of diagnostics and worry about this later.

-Thanks for all the help guys!!!

evilxsystems · Post by **evilxsystems** » 01 Dec 2015, 15:12

It passed!!! No fucking idea how or why though. I repeated the emissions test and it failed exactly the same way. Then I went to one of those emissions shops (A van actually) and we put a monitor on it. It was throwing the P0102 code again, so I jiggled around the MAF sensor in case the wiring was loose. Weird thing was the MAF was only reading between 0.32 V at idle and up to about 1.5V at around 2.5K RPMs, which seems low, what is it supposed to read? I replaced the original MAF with a cheap aftermarket one about 20K miles ago, could that be it?

The front O2 sensor was fine but the rear O2 sensor was dead. Anyway after jiggling the MAF wiring I took it back over to emissions and it passed!?!?...I don't know what's going on, the car feels like it's running fine...it'll occasionally stumble at idle, and I got it to die a couple times while I was jiggling the MAF wiring. Could it just be the wires?

Post by **misha** » 01 Dec 2015, 15:22

Throw away that piece of aftermarket crap and buy a decent oem Bosch Maf.They are expensive but you can always buy used one.
Aftermarket sensors on these cars WILL NOT work.

evilxsystems · Post by **evilxsystems** » 01 Dec 2015, 15:48

I think I still have the original 150,000 mi Bosch one...would it be worth trying to clean it?

Post by **misha** » 01 Dec 2015, 15:52

When i said used one...i meant on used & WORKING one.
You can try with a special Maf cleaner.Just spray it without touching the element.

The most important thing is not to touch the element and to let it dry completely before installation.