CV Axle Seal Installation, did I mess up?

rick4484 · Post by **rick4484** » 14 Dec 2015, 17:31

1998 S70 T-5
Installing new CV axle seals and want to know if I messed up. Bought a Bearing Race and Seal Driver Kit from Harbor Freight #95853, which is pretty nice by the way, and using the 44.5mm collar, I installed the seal. I coated the seal with ATF and tapped away. When I checked my progress, I noticed the seal is slightly recessed inside the housing, about 1/8", not flush. The collars in this particular kit do not prevent the seal from going all the way into the housing. Are these seals suppose to be flush or can they be slightly recessed?
I suppose I can go leave it that way and see if it leaks, then redo it with a new seal if it does leak. But, would like to know in advance so I can order another one if necessary. I'd rather get it right now, before I reassemble everything.

Post by **dosbricks** » 14 Dec 2015, 18:22

If the seal is evenly recessed (not crooked) no more than 1/8" inch, you should be fine. There is nothing back there to impede the seal's function at that depth. The OE seals are recessed about 1.5 mm or equal to the depth of the little taper around the edge of the flange.

BTW, you can drive a replacement axle seal flush with a soft block of wood and it will stay put and work just fine. So there is a little bit of latitude on axle seals.

rick4484 · Post by **rick4484** » 14 Dec 2015, 19:12

Thank you. I used a soft block of wood on the passenger side seal and it is flush. Wish I would done that on the driver's side. I'm going ahead with the install. Thanks for the reply.

Post by **cn90** » 14 Dec 2015, 20:20

I hope you got the Corteco seal, which is OEM brand name.

Here is the brief summary of seal: from factory, whether it is flushed or 1mm from the bore surface, it is not important.
Over the next 10-15 years and millions of rotations, the factory seal makes a smooth interface with the axle. If you look carefully at the axle, you will see a shiny part about 1-2mm in width. This is where the seal lip makes contact (the garter spring keeps it tight around the rotating shaft).
The idea about replacing seal is to make sure the new seal sits in the same place as before.

Just leave it alone and watch for any leak over the next few weeks. Chances are you will be fine.

To me the brand name of the seal is more important.

Post by **erikv11** » 15 Dec 2015, 09:01

Yes the seal can make a shiny spot/surface if run for a long time, no it is not critical to land the new seal on the same shiny spot. For example, when the shiny spot is actually a worn groove, it would be important to *not* place the seal at the same depth, as the tolerances can be different when there is a groove and the seal may leak. But P80 factory axles are hard metal, there will not be any groove, so in this case grooving is not going to be an issue.

I drive seals flush with a block of wood because it is easy, cheap and reliable, and mimics the seal depth from the factory, but others like to recess them all the way and for cam seals and axle seals, that seems to work well on these cars.