Looking at an '04 XC70 - Thoughts?

[mtd240]

Looking at an '04 XC70 (original ad text after this blurb). Trying to see what the "common flaws" are for these. Read a few things on Haldex AOC pumps, but didn't see anything major - just the usual timing belt/transmission fluid/PCV system/oil change/front suspension I had with my '98 XC. Sounds like I would need to grab VIDA and a DiCE tool. Anything specific I should check? The price seems very right..


For sale is a 2004 Volvo XC70 Cross Country. The car has 198,000 miles (mostly highway miles). The paint is in good condition and the black leather interior looks great. It has one small dent on the rear driver side fender. The car drives fine. All Wheel Drive. Good transmission, shifts smooth. A/C works good, gets hot and cold. On the bad side, this vehicle will also require some work. The check engine light is on, the lights on the car are flickering, and the battery is going bad. The car also needs new tires. I am purchasing a new vehicle this month and no longer need this one. Asking price is $1,600 Firm. Cash only. No trades.

[scot850]

Personally, I'd prefer the 05-07 years as they changed the AWD system to a better system.

Having said that, the price is low, but have to weigh that up against an unknown list of issues.

Definitely have the car codes read, even if you have to take to the dealer for the code diagnostic. It could be worth it in the long run to know if you are getting the bottomless pit, or a potential gem.

All the battery/check light/light issues could be linked. May be as simple as a bad battery, or alternator or both. Otherwise it can be a can of worms as you will see if you look at some recent posts on possible CEL issues or wiring problems.

Otherwise, check the usual stuff as per the V70XC. These P2 cars are hard on front suspension control arm bushes, and upper spring seats (there was a recall on this, but can't recall if all years were included). Coil springs break (or 06 XC70 is getting new rears next week). I don't think 04 models had the 4C suspension so at least that lowers shock costs.

Check the driveline, and in particular the angle gear for leaks.

Instrument clusters can be problematic, but can be repaired at a cost. This may be another reason for the light issues.

Otherwise, good luck and let us know how it goes.

Neil.

[abscate]

That price is low because the trade-in value was even lower - that tells you the dealer knows they can't even get wholesale 500 for this car - probably due to a boatload of work needed.

Parts on the P2 are not cheap and I would pass on this one.

[mtd240]

Thanks for the comments guys. The owner got back to me and said he replaced the battery, which fixed the flickering lights. He also said the check engine light was a P0303 (Cyl. 3 misfire), and that a mechanic said it has low compression in that cylinder. Guessing a burnt/stuck valve, if this car is anything like the P1s.

I am considering lowballing him on the price and doing the headgasket/valve/seals myself..am I being an idiot? (If "yes", please provide reasoning )

[precopster]

Do a full suspension check on control arm bushings and end links. At these miles probably inner/outer tie rods have play. At least he's being honest enough to mention the cylinder problem. If you're comfortable with the head gasket you're probably ok with other more major things.

[scot850]

I agree with Mike and you . If you are comfortable with the fixes, go through the list of checks above yourself, and those Mike added on the suspension, and then if you are ok with tackling the head then go for it. The head repairs and parts will be in the $1000 range if you do the work yourself. Have the head checked for flatness.

Neil.