Help me diagnose power steering problem

[clarkS70glt]

I had a heavy steering issue and it ended up being the "u-joint" on the steering shaft (engine side of the firewall). I spray it with lube every time I service the car and it stays nice and free.

[Seaway]

I had a heavy steering issue and it ended up being the "u-joint" on the steering shaft (engine side of the firewall). I spray it with lube every time I service the car and it stays nice and free.

I had the same issue. The steering joint was the culprit. Replaced the coupling and it is perfect again. It is not a difficult job, but it is a bit of a pain. I think start to finish it took me about 2 hours. It's only two bolts. Remove the one at the steering column inside the cabin and the one under the car. The coupling is then driven off the steering rack and replacing it is the reverse.

Spray the coupling with pb blaster from under the car and at the boot inside the car. If the steering returns to the normal feel, then that is the problem.

[coldax]

An alarm went off in my mind when I read, "I have been using Dexron III based on the recommendations of a local auto parts store. In the past I have used ATF4." Especially that, "on the recommendation of the local auto parts store," part.

I don't know Volvos too well, but all I can think is that is not a good thing.
Essentially you are mixing fluids and then minimizing the ratio of one. This in my experience is bad on seals regardless their make.

What should be used?

To clarify, I always topped off with ATF4. I never did a flush and fill with it. See my post above about correct ATF after speaking with FCP Euro. A call to my local dealer may be in order as well.

[coldax]

I had a heavy steering issue and it ended up being the "u-joint" on the steering shaft (engine side of the firewall). I spray it with lube every time I service the car and it stays nice and free.

I had the same issue. The steering joint was the culprit. Replaced the coupling and it is perfect again. It is not a difficult job, but it is a bit of a pain. I think start to finish it took me about 2 hours. It's only two bolts. Remove the one at the steering column inside the cabin and the one under the car. The coupling is then driven off the steering rack and replacing it is the reverse.

Spray the coupling with pb blaster from under the car and at the boot inside the car. If the steering returns to the normal feel, then that is the problem.

Thanks. I'll try the u-joint lube and post back with results.

[Herb Goltz]

I'm pretty certain that you need pentosin-based power steering fluid for your car-- check your manual.

[coldax]

Just following up here - I spray-lubed the steering column u-joints inside and out side the firewall. The steering feel is at about 90% of normal.

Thank you all for your help and comments.

FYI I called the dealer regarding the correct PS fluid, and he said it has always been the same for many years. They sell it by the liter for about $26 (US). It was in labelled in Swedish (or other) so he wasn't able to identify the ingredients or any directions, but he was certain this was the product and there was no other that he sold.

[chrafael]

Does my memory serve me well? Isn't there a filter screen behind one of the fittings on the pressure hose? Have you tried loosening one of the fittings or maybe disconnecting the return hose, sticking it in a bucket with a rag over it and verifying that the pump is moving fluid before you replace it?

[coldax]

Does my memory serve me well? Isn't there a filter screen behind one of the fittings on the pressure hose? Have you tried loosening one of the fittings or maybe disconnecting the return hose, sticking it in a bucket with a rag over it and verifying that the pump is moving fluid before you replace it?

If you read my post directly before yours, you'll see that by spray-lubing the steering column u-joints and firewall shaft I was able to correct the problem without surgery.