timing belt 2.4 non turbo

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 23 Feb 2016, 16:40

I am planning to change the timing belt "kit" on a 171k 2000 V70 I just purchased for my sister.

I have been looking on Ebay at the "kits" available and would like to buy genuine Volvo parts but came across this one and wanted to know if anyone has any feedback on the quality of Contitech as far as the belt goes. Also if the original water pump is not leaking, should I change it or leave it alone? I believe the original waterpumps have metal impellers and some of the aftermarket ones have plastic (Which I don't want). Also, I have not pulled the timing cover off yet to inspect what is there now. Seems this 1 owner V70 was well maintained but how can I tell if a tensioner/idler is in good shape?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Volvo-C70-S ... ga&vxp=mtr

I may take some pics and post of the timing belt and components for your judgement

Dan

Teddy1975 · Post by **Teddy1975** » 23 Feb 2016, 17:51

Contitech seems to be what most people recommend here.

As far as the water pump go, you can pull it and see if the impellers are still solid and there is no obvious wear/tear. That's only at the cost of a new gasket and coolant and it will set your mind at ease.
With timing belt off you can check the pulleys for play/rough going.

If your sister plans on having this car for years to come, buy a kit and put on the parts that needs to be replaced here and now, then save the rest for next time the TB is to be changed.

When was the TB/serp belt last replaced?

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 23 Feb 2016, 18:01

Steer clear from a timing belt kit like that. This is what can happen to the car if you use a cheap water pump. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nm9kpuvY6ks. The Contitech belt is solid, Volvo OEM, too, the Gates Blue belt is also very much loved. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... acing-blue. Aisin makes the OEM water pump for these cars. I put in a Hepu as it is sold by FCP with a lifetime warranty. (And comes with bolts!) The pulleys and idlers are relatively cheap and should be replaced when doing a timing belt job. (I believe INA makes the OEM belt tensioners/pulleys.)

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 23 Feb 2016, 18:46

Tanks for the tips guys. As far as when the TB was last replaced I don't have any idea as I bought this car from the auction as a trade in to a local Toyota dealer and got it really cheap. It runs excellent but I want to pull the cover to check condition of the belt/pulleys. I know the car was serviced by Volvo locally here and I have good relations with that dealer. Maybe I drive it down there and have them pull the VIN to see if they have any service history on it............... I have so far ordered motor mounts, trans torque mount, cabin filter, Going to check trans fluid condition and possible drain/fill using Volvo branded oil (Or?????? Can I use Toyota's Type V or any synthetic trans fluid??) I hear a clunking when hitting a relatively deep pot hole, otherwise no noises from front end......... strut mounts or control arm bushings?? Anything else I should check to make sure this car is reliable for her??? I have the ETS light on in the dash but I believe it will go off when I clean the throttle body (or????)

Teddy1975 · Post by **Teddy1975** » 23 Feb 2016, 19:20

Volvo shops usually keeps a record of what has been done to the car as they use this info for recalls and such. How long back in time it goes I don't know.

If you got the handbook for the car it should tell you what kind of fluids to use. Eg, if the 850 I have would have had automatic gearbox, it says I should use ATF oil that meet Dexron II E as well as Ford Mercon. (This may well be different from your car and was only shown as an example as to what the manual has of information)

Post by **oragex** » 23 Feb 2016, 20:36

Is this 171K miles or km? If km the water pump may not need replaced as contrary to domestic or japanese engines, on Volvo it lasts about 300K km. If the car has 170K miles it depends if it's still on the original water pump or not. Even if it seems replaced, double check if it's a Volvo/Aisin one. As mentioned, cheap after market wp (as the one in the link that comes with a Conti belt) are surprisingly unreliable on European cars. Same goes for suspension components such as control arm bushings or strut mounts. Lemforder is a brand of choice for non Oem parts for the suspension bits.

If checking the tb under the cover, it's good to crank the engine so to see the belt on all sections. Mine looked fine except for a single transverse crack.

Post by **cn90** » 23 Feb 2016, 22:22

1+,

Stay away from the kit.

Believe it or not, the Volvo dealer sells the whole kit (TB and 2 pulleys) for US $120.
Even if you source them separately (Conti TB, INA pulleys), it will be around $110.

The Aisin WP should last to about 180K miles.

The O.P. is in Canada, so I assume km, not miles, in his posts.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Feb 2016, 07:19

The ETS light is doubtful to be cleared by cleaning. Look at the body and see if it has a white or yellow sticker. Read the date code on the serial number or take a picture and post here (Full editor, attachments tab)

You might be looking at a 500-1000 repair to get the ETS up to grade, so tackle that before you start spending other money.

The 1999-2001 ETM croak at about 100k miles, so you are either about to croak your second one, or you have to worlds longest living one.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 24 Feb 2016, 11:21

goldmandan wrote:Going to check trans fluid condition and possible drain/fill using Volvo branded oil (Or?????? Can I use Toyota's Type V or any synthetic trans fluid??)

On a 2000 non turbo you should have a 5 speed automatic unless things were shipped differently in Canada. That is a very touch transmission and you should only use the JWS3309 type fluid, not Dexron of any flavor.

The Volvo branded fluid is really expensive and many have used the Toyota equivalent with no reports of bad things happening as a result. Just make absolutely sure it is JWS3309 and states as such on the bottle.

...Lee

goldmandan · Post by **goldmandan** » 25 Feb 2016, 15:43

OK, I am back now after doing some looking over the car. Thanks Lee for the clarification of the trans fluid. I thought I had read to use the Toyota Type IV fluid was OK. I can get a case of the stuff for about $28 through my shop. I did check condition of the timing belt and It looked to have been changed already and the idler/tensioner and waterpump!! Good news! I also checked the steering/suspension and only found one bad ball joint on passenger side. Will order a new control arm (any suggestions on what brand to get or stay away from. Have heard not to buy "Uro" brand.)
have ordered engine mounts and torque rod for trans. The transmission oil was nice and red. The strut mounts were nice and tight, the power steering fluid was dark so I took out everything I could with a turkey baster from the reservoir and filled up with Pentosin steering fluid. Did a block check on the coolant reservoir, no contamination from exhaust gases. Everything on the car looks to have been very well taken care of! The front pads and control arm on passenger side were all I could see.

Now the ETS light...... I will get a picture of the throttle body when I remove it tomorrow and post here. Do you need a picture of the door sticker with info? Or of a sticker on the Throttle body?

The SRS light is also on, scanner says something about buckle on driver and passenger side and also SIPS signal missing driver side......... disconnected wires under the seat??? Any clue on this??

Thanks in advance

Dan