99 v70 glt running rough

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 01 Mar 2016, 16:06

I just purchased a 1999 v70 glt for cheap $400. I bought it knowing it has issues but the interior and body were in mint condition, and it only has 200,000 kms on it (125k miles)

So far, the exhaust is rotted and it idles rough as well as sputters when given gas. I did drive it from where I bought it using the local roads to my home which is 30 mins drive.

During the drive, I noticed the following:

1)First time starting the car, it stalled, then started up fine the second time.
2)Whenever stopping at the lights, the idle would dip and then come back and dip every so often but never shutting off.
3)Got code P0302
4)ran rough most of the time, but there were instances when the engine smoothed out and it drove normal.
5) while cruising at around 80 kph, the rpms would flutter

The car was sitting for at least 6 months before we bought it.

I am suspecting a few things at the moment:

1) ETM (has white sticker etm currently so probably original).
2) Bad Maf sensor
3)worst case, burnt valve because of code P0302, although I have had cars in the past with P0302 which didn't have burnt valves.
4)worst worst case, etm, maf, and burnt valve.

Looking for some guidance on where to start first. Was thinking of cleaning the etm and Maf first to see if the idle corrects itself, and then do a compression test. I am in no rush to get the car on the road so I don't mind experimenting in order to save money rather than going all out and replacing thing left right and center.

I am thinking if I spend $1000 above what I paid for the car ($400) its still a awesome deal for the mileage and condition of the car.

Thanks

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 01 Mar 2016, 16:38

is there a way to check the coil on cylinder 2 to see if it is the problem? can I take it out and stick the spark plug in there and see if there is spark like I would do with the normal ignition wires.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Mar 2016, 19:41

Yes, just ground it with a wire so you can get a good ground connection on the plug. Don't touch the plug, that will hurt

Post by **stephansvolvo** » 01 Mar 2016, 22:51

There's a good chance the fuel is old enough in the lines to cause some of to issues. Good maf cleaning new plugs and wires and new gas.

Post by **rspi** » 02 Mar 2016, 03:28

You can also swap the coils around, #2 with #5 to see if the misfire follows.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Mar 2016, 04:16

Pull all five plugs and keep them in my order, snap a picture of the business end and post here!

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 02 Mar 2016, 14:07

thanks for the replies. Now I can do everything you guys asked if I can only get the spark plug cover off

! 3 of the 8 bolts have rusted heads. I have to mess with that first.

I will post a photo of the plugs when I get them out.

Thanks

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 04 Mar 2016, 13:11

So the plugs were ngk and the second cylinder plug was a lot more black than the rest.

Still have yet to replace them. Will report back.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Mar 2016, 15:25

Plug gaps look large, but measuring them and setting them to small side of0.028" is good to do before replacing

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 05 Mar 2016, 14:35

I installed brand new volvo plugs and cleaned the MAF with CRC Maf cleaner. I switched coil #2 with coil #5. It Runs much better but the rmps still keep fluctuating at idle. The engine is no longer stuttering and when I give it gas the engine sounds smooth and full of power compared to before.No check engine light in the 10 minutes I let it idle.

I suspect that the etm is on its way out since it is the original white sticker etm.

I think the wise thing would be to get a xemodex etm but just want to get advice on what else I can check before dishing out $600 .

Also wanted mention that the exhaust is completely broken from after the catalytic converter but I doubt that would cause the rpm fluctuations.

Any more ideas? Thanks