2000 Volvo S70 Dies quickly after starting

FearTheDots · Post by **FearTheDots** » 02 Apr 2016, 20:47

Hello Volvo enthusiast,

I have a 2000 Volvo S70 AWD. Currently I am experiencing issues and am about ready to part with my Volvo. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Current Car Condition:
242k miles
XeModex ETM
Quick fire and then stalls within 2-5 seconds
Fuel Filter Replaced
Fuel Pressure seems to be great when relieving pressure
Fuel Pump whines great
New plugs
Tested out 2 new coils on what I thought were bad coils

The current issues started out with extreme rough idling / or stalling but would sometimes start up and not have any issues. This had happened for a week. One day heading to Costco my wife and I decided to fill up on gas, the car was running perfect before and after topping off with a full tank, the car was at its worst yet and would not stay running. After about an hour or so, it finally stayed running enough that I made it home. I decided to change out the fuel filter and replace spark plug. After replacing those I tried to start it and it did for a little and then died. It is not having the worst issue trying to start up and I have yet to have it run for longer than 2-5 seconds.

I did replace the vehicle and this has been sitting for a little while, and I am wanting to sell and try to get the most out of the vehicle as I can. I have gone through all of the coil packs and noticed some odd things. The first thing was that 2 of the coil packs had what I would consider a severe enough crack to be concerned with. The next was that in these two cylinders while replacing the spark plugs it was pretty wet and I was very confused. The only thing that I could imagine was that it was not igniting and it had enough fuel buildup to create enough pressure to squeeze itself through the threads just. I know that sounds odd but I wanna give best details I can. After replacing the plugs again with concern, I tried to start the car once more and noticed that liquid climbing up the threads again. It was slightly dirty but I could smell it was fuel. I still could not get the car to start after addressing the two cylinders I felt had severe issues. It still only starts for a short second and dies out. Even quicker when gas is applied. I did check the old coil packs with an ohm meter and noticed issues different values from the new ones. I thought for sure this was the problem. I am stumped currently and am ready to just part with this vehicle but I wanna know if you guys have any thoughts!

Thank you!
Daniel Saywers

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 02 Apr 2016, 23:12

Is the 2 to 5 seconds accurate or is it more like 1 second? A bad antenna ring or, more often, and dirty electrical connection to the antenna ring is the culprit. The car reads a code from the key and then tests that code immediately when the car starts. If the question goes unanswered the car immediately dies. It is an anti-theft "feature" when it works but a big pain when it doesn't.

You indicated that the car began to run poorly after it was filled up. Is there a chance that the car got overfilled by adding more fuel after the nozzle clicked off? Overfilling can often lead to the charcoal canister getting flooded with liquid fuel rather than capturing vapors. When the purge valve opens as the engine starts it winds up sucking that raw fuel into the intake manifold and the cars runs exceedingly rich and it will often stall because it is so rich.

That problem, more or less,corrects itself after the level on the fuel tank drops but you need to run it 100 or so miles to drop the level and then let nature take its course with the rest of the fuel in the canister.

Is the Check Engine Light on and have you had the codes read if it is?

...Lee

FearTheDots · Post by **FearTheDots** » 02 Apr 2016, 23:53

Thanks Lee,

No codes are up and I did pull the cable off the battery to try and reset everything just in case something was misreading after everything was replaced. It definitely feels like its running extremely rich potentially. I feel like the 2-5 seconds is on a good start up if anything, you are correct 1 second would be more common than the other times. Any chance I can replace this charcoal canister your talking about, not sure if there is more than one I just remember there usually being one up near the engine on other vehicles. I will try and siphon out gas and drop that level. I honestly don't believe it got overfilled but maybe something happened. Currently the car is parked in a position where it's tilted toward the cap side. Would this be the correct angle to direct gas to that canister?

Daniel Saywers

RigsPGT · Post by **RigsPGT** » 03 Apr 2016, 00:16

This sounds similar to my issue I had with the 99 which turned out to be the ETM and MAF sensor. I see you have a Xemodex one but i don't know if they ever fail, just got to see if anyone else had issues with them. And as far as the MAF, I didn't get a CEL until many many times of start and stop situations. Any chance of having an extra MAF sensor as a spare to test?

FearTheDots · Post by **FearTheDots** » 03 Apr 2016, 10:14

I don't have a spare MAF Sensor and was curious if unplugging it can benefit anything for diagnosis? Yea I would be curious if anyone else has had issues with the Xemodex ETM and failing.

Thanks Rigs!

Post by **erikv11** » 03 Apr 2016, 12:44

Unplugging the MAF then attempting to start it is a standard diagnostic test for the 98 and earlier cars with the Bosch MAF. For your car with the Denso MAF, it is certainly worth trying. It will set a MAF code and check engine light.

FearTheDots · Post by **FearTheDots** » 03 Apr 2016, 14:33

I unplugged the MAF sensor and no codes were still thrown up. I am curios why I am not getting any codes or check engine light to show. I also tried to investigate the Antenna Ring situation and unplugging and replugging the connection and still got no luck.

Thanks guys!
Danny Saywers

Post by **abscate** » 03 Apr 2016, 16:40

Does the check engine light illuminate in key position II before starting?

FearTheDots · Post by **FearTheDots** » 03 Apr 2016, 17:21

Abscate,

Yes the check engine light does come on before starting. I was able to borrow a scanner and could not get anything to read

Is there a probe type tool used to check the spark/coils on these Volvos?

Danny~

Post by **abscate** » 04 Apr 2016, 06:17

No codes with MAF disconnected. That is not good. HAS the car been re-chipped or other performance enhancements?

Disconnecting a MAF on an 99+ usually trips codes immediately