1999 Volvo v70 Passenger side Front Wheel Play

[paredown]

Unfortunately, FCP is not always a warranty for parts quality. Sole warranty is getting Volvo, Lemforder or Sachs. Febi or Meyle (even HD) are a gamble that can last as little as 6 months.

Still have not taken anything apart, but I was surprised that I see a few negative reviews of the Meyle HD control arms now that I have time to noodle around. Live and learn, I guess--or perhaps I should have asked more questions to begin with.

I have a new driver's side Meyle ready to go in for the one with the bushing problem--I'm wondering now if I should take the front end apart, and see if FCP will warranty both sides and get Lemdorfer or blue box replacements.

[sleddriver]

To the OP:

I had the same one go bad on the sled. It would roar when making left-hand turns. Try doing a series of S-turns in a parking lot and listen for differences. Don't remember much play when rocking the tire, but when I finally got the bearing/hub out, I was amazed at how loose it was.

[abscate]

I've done FWB on my 1999 now, neither had any play on the wheel. Both did the changing whir of death on side to side swerving.

One was a nasty removal test needed a hydraulic press to get the axle stub out

[paredown]

Well I'm working through the issues. So far I have found a stuck brake caliper on the passenger side, but I can't find anything else wrong on that side except for a little play on the inner tie rod end.

Driver's side was a bit of a mess. The ball joint on the Meyle control arm failed, and the aftermarket CV failed on the outboard end (this is the one that got put in against my better judgment in an emergency situation--just in case anyone is thinking about aftermarket CVs.)

I had picked up an OEM Volvo axle on eBay--and rebuilt with GKN boots and new grease. Had to purchase a brake caliper from NAPA for the passenger side--the piston had been stuck out for a while and was too corroded to use. (Can't seem to find replacement pistons?) Cleaned and reused passenger side caliper--in decent shape although rusty on the inside of the piston (maybe aftermarket already?). Seal was OK.

Wheel bearings seem OK, so I'm hoping when it goes back together, all will be OK.

[abscate]

If you have 150k miles on TG street bearing replace it, especially if you don't have the plastic shield on it. Both of mine went between 150-175k in the salt /slush belt

[paredown]

Back together--much better. No 'grind of death'--I'm assuming that was the bad CV; no 'clunkathunk' which I'm assuming was the thoroughly beat ball joint (<2000 miles). Tiny bit of front end vibration at about 70mph--but I'll get the tire checked, since I felt a difference last time I rotated tires back to front...

I'll be sending the Meyle control arm back to FCP to see if they will warranty it.

Brakes--feel more like brakes should feel, although the pedal travel/feel is a little soft for my taste. I was trying to self-bleed using a simple bottle with immersed hose, but I'm not sure if it got all the air out of the fronts.

I'll probably do the inside tie rod ends and/or bearings next...

[sleddriver]

I'll be sending the Meyle control arm back to FCP to see if they will warranty it.

When it came time to replace both front control arms, I compared the Meyles to Lemforders. The formers BJ's were looser and didn't feel smooth when manipulated. The laters were MUCH stiffer to move, but when they did move, were very, very smooth. I returned the Meyles and bought the Lemforders.

Too bad Meyle didn't install a quality BJ in their other-wise nice looking LCA. What a shame......

[abscate]

It's much less important to have the end immersed rather than loop the hose up into the spring to put some head onto,the brake bleeder. You want to just crack the bleeder enough so that fluid is pushed out with some force on the pedal to get the air out. It will be less than 1/2 turn from closed when it's right,

[paredown]

It's much less important to have the end immersed rather than loop the hose up into the spring to put some head onto,the brake bleeder. You want to just crack the bleeder enough so that fluid is pushed out with some force on the pedal to get the air out. It will be less than 1/2 turn from closed when it's right,

Thanks--will try again. Now that you reminded me, I think I knew this before and did it with the bottle up higher so I could get the loop up and forgot.
Will report back--although we have a week of rain forecasted, so I may not get to it for a bit.

[abscate]

Open it wide first and pump,a good 200 ml through first until you see nice clean brake fluid. The tighten the bleeder down to the near closed position to get the air out.