Timing belt install questions

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » 05 May 2016, 06:32

Visited my mechanic yesterday re: TB, pulleys, waterpump etc for my 2006 XC70. He said "I'll get you a parts/ labor estimate, but why not do it yourself? You have skills". (which I do!!!). Reading the tutorials, I came across a few snags: I do not have pneumatic tools, thus I cannot remove the crank pulley (Do I have to?). I don't have a means to secure the two cam pulleys so they don't move...suggestions? Any special tools or warnings that you all can provide? Is the waterpump an 'in and out' deal? Assistance please, or the mechanic gets the job, and I have to dig deep in the wallet to pay him!

Post by **vtl** » 05 May 2016, 12:38

Rent an electric 8 amps impact wrench, it's was sufficient for crank pulley on both my P2s.

While old t-belt is still on, do a few marks with white corrector fluid on t-belt, cam pulleys and crankshaft, then remove the belt and copy the marks on a new belt. Install new belt making sure those marks do align. Fix new belt on cam pulleys with paper clips. You generally don't need cam lock tool for this job.

If you didn't do your PCV - do it, or at least have seals visually inspected while you are there.

Post by **oragex** » 05 May 2016, 15:01

Contrary to many other brands, you don't need to do the water pump with the first timing belt. This is what most people do, and saves money because aftermarket water pumps are terrible and the Volvo one isn't cheap.

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 05 May 2016, 17:18

AlanS wrote:I don't have a means to secure the two cam pulleys so they don't move...suggestions?

If you're anywhere near New Hampshire... I have the pulley securing tool you could borrow. Never used it, but have to do the same thing eventually. One of those situations of "get what you need to do it"... then "oh, not the issue".

AlanS · Post by **AlanS** » 06 May 2016, 07:04

If I pick up a cam lock tool (as they are not expensive), do I not eliminate the fear of the cams moving? This seems to me, if I lock the cams, mark the crank pulley, then it is kinda foolproof in lining everything up. The issue I had with my S40 was the CVV cam pulley moved when I took the belt off, and even with the mark, it was not clear if I was a tooth or two off on the belt (I obviously worked it out), but always felt that locking the cams would have solved any issue. BTW...no where near N.H....I'm on Long Island, NY...thank you anyway

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 06 May 2016, 18:02

Norm is to put crank at TDC mark and cams at their marks (using notches in cover) and lock the pulleys with the tool. Technically, you don't have to be at TDC and just simply lock cams and change belt, but if crank moves you're in trouble.
Yeah, tool is cheap. I buy oddball specialty tools for repairs on my cars. I figure if someone doesn't want to own a tool but needs it... loan it.

raquette · Post by **raquette** » 08 May 2016, 19:17

2007 xc 70 replaced timing belt and do not need to remove pulley.

Post by **IdahoBob** » 10 May 2016, 22:02

I made a cam lock, similar to the old (they don't sell it anymore) IPD lock. Get a 1" wide steel strip, about 1/8" thick. Cut off tow pieces, each approx. 2 3/4" long. Drill a 3/8" hole through the center of both. Get a 3/8" bolt, 4-5" long. Rotate the crank to the proper position. Go another 1/4 turn past and then turn backwards until it's properly aligned again. This takes the slack out the gear train. Slide the bars between the cam gear team, top and bottom, pass the bolt through the holes, cinch it up, and your cam is locked. I've done 5 of these belt changes now, and this has saved me several hours. I learned after needing to pull the whole thing apart again on two of them. One tooth off will run fine (even four teeth off will run!), and then it starts throwing codes...

You can buy an Aisin water pump. It's what is sold as a Volvo part. I've bought three of them that still had the shadow of the "Volvo" logo in the casting. I agree with the poster above who said to not use aftermarket pumps. The only leaker I have seen is an aftermarket pump. Replacing the pump is really simple, but get a set of new bolts, with the sealer on them (IPD sells them with the Aisin pump). The bolts go directly into the water jacket; so if the bolt isn't properly sealed you'll have a coolant leak.

And, get Volvo or Volvo-supplier other parts, the idler, the tensioner. On the aftermarket ones you can easily see that the springs aren't as beefy. If one of these breaks you engine is likely a goner.

And I agree with the poster who said an electric impact will get the crank nut off. Instead of renting I went to a pawn shop and just bought a decent used one for $30. It's also pretty handy for removing & starting lug nuts when pulling wheels.

The only time the electric wasn't enough was a pulley nut put on by the same shop that installed the aftermarket water pump. I broke several sockets, extensions and a breaker bar on that one. It wouldn't come off even with me bouncing on a 4' cheater bar. In the end I had to take a sawzall and cut a diagonal groove into one of the flats of the 30mm nut until I just saw the start of the thread on the crankshaft (yes, I was nervous). I was then able to squirt in some WD40, let it sit a minute, and hit it with the pawn shop impact. Off it came. Add having a spare 30mm crankshaft nut on hand (IPD) when you start this job.