I drove my car to work and back home on a Friday, backed into the garage and turned it off. No problems. It sat all weekend. Went to start it on Sunday evening and it cranked but would not start. I have been having the "Brake failure, stop safely ASAP" for the past 3 years and cannot get it fixed. Yes, I took it to the Volvo dealership and they had it for 3 months. Still not fixed. Even talked to someone in Sweden and they told me to take it back to dealership. Did not. Anyway, for 2 weeks I have tried to start the car, it just cranks and won't start. I have pulled all the fuses and checked them, pulled the throttle body and cleaned it, checked the fuel rail and it has fuel, disconnected the battery and let it set overnight and reconnected, tried a different key that I kept in the house and checked the spark plugs and wires. When checking the plugs (which are clean), I noticed that down in the hole it smelled like gas but the plugs were not wet. Should they be? After all the cranking you would think they would have fuel on them. I was going to check the camshaft sensor but I cannot locate it. I have also checked to make sure the plugs have spark when cranking the engine. I have even locked the car over night, so the security system sets, just in case that had an issue. I have also cleaned the MAF sensor. Nothing has worked
I am now at a loss on what to check. My family says it is time to get rid of the car. It has 218,829 miles on it, but I love my Volvo. I don't think I can get rid of it if it's not running. Plus, I just put a new transmission in it 3 years ago. What should I do? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! I do not want to junk my baby!!! If nothing else, if I cannot get it running, I would like to see if someone with more knowledge would want to buy it and fix it.
2000 S80 2.9L Engine Cranks but won't start
called a roadside mechanic for similar symptoms in V70: fuel pump worked when ignition on but not when cranking. Relays all seemed ok, connections ok, disconnected battery, wiped computer history, etc etc. Only thing he could think of next was crank sensor which I assume is same as camshaft sensor - but he could' not access it easily enough at roadside (couldn't find it). Seemed like the fuel pump was not being intructed to pump. Anyway, see what my garage (not a volvo dealer) makes of it tomorrow.
2006 V70 diesel engine cranks won't start resolution:
see previous post last month: got car back yesterday, was faulty wiring meant Diesel Particulate Filter not being cleaned and no alerts from sensors, DPF became blocked and engine wouldn't start due to back pressure. Should have suspected a problem as during previous routine service I needed a forced regeneration of DPF despite only using car for long journeys.
Second hand DPF bought from Denmark (£300), valves etc needed fixing as damaged due to back pressure from blocked DPF: total cost £1800 (London prices). Ouch.
I believe DPF blocks eventually anyway due to ash build-up (not soot whcih should be burnt off). Mechanic advised 20-30 min of 3000rpm every month to be sure but I will see if I can spot when regeneration is happening (reduced mpg, smoke) and if not go back to garage. Car should initiate regen. by injecting fule into DPF in whcih case just 3000rpm won't do it.
see previous post last month: got car back yesterday, was faulty wiring meant Diesel Particulate Filter not being cleaned and no alerts from sensors, DPF became blocked and engine wouldn't start due to back pressure. Should have suspected a problem as during previous routine service I needed a forced regeneration of DPF despite only using car for long journeys.
Second hand DPF bought from Denmark (£300), valves etc needed fixing as damaged due to back pressure from blocked DPF: total cost £1800 (London prices). Ouch.
I believe DPF blocks eventually anyway due to ash build-up (not soot whcih should be burnt off). Mechanic advised 20-30 min of 3000rpm every month to be sure but I will see if I can spot when regeneration is happening (reduced mpg, smoke) and if not go back to garage. Car should initiate regen. by injecting fule into DPF in whcih case just 3000rpm won't do it.
I have exactly the same issue. Cranks but won't start.
Checked cam sensor. Spark at plug. Arguable if correct fuel pressure (seems low). Pump drawing 5A.
After pulling and cleaning throttle body, crank sensor etc etc and bypassing the Fuel Pump relay, it started right up. Put everything back and it still started right up. Tried a bunch of other things ... still started right up.
Waited for next day. Refuses to start. Cranks and won't fire (or occasionally backfires).
Although the fuel pressure slowly rises to an acceptable level, there seems to be very little fuel flow. I am in the process of tracking the fuel pressure regulator (somewhere in the rear above the tank) and will try to pull the pump. This car (not mine) has only 60K on the clock. You would think the fuel pump would last better than that. But perhaps with no (or little) use, it has corroded (with only a 1/4 tank of gas and sitting for 3 years.
I think it does use a weird vacuum routing from the emissions system to the fuel pressure regulator. If this leaks or malfunctions, there will likely be a problem.
For the record, there is a lot of misinformation around this model. 2000 S80 2.9L does NOT have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. (It has a damper that is designed to minimise pressure fluctuations in the rail). It also does NOT seem to have a Fuel Pump Control Module (it is not on the wiring digram and I certainly can't find one). It does have a horrible fuel return "loop" buried above and around the fuel tank gathering crude and muck. I have yet to access that. This appears to have a "roll over shut off valve" and the pressure regulator (and filter). It appears I need to remove the seat back (not just the seat base) to access this from above. Could the shut off valve be stuck? Sigh. More digging required.
Checked cam sensor. Spark at plug. Arguable if correct fuel pressure (seems low). Pump drawing 5A.
After pulling and cleaning throttle body, crank sensor etc etc and bypassing the Fuel Pump relay, it started right up. Put everything back and it still started right up. Tried a bunch of other things ... still started right up.
Waited for next day. Refuses to start. Cranks and won't fire (or occasionally backfires).
Although the fuel pressure slowly rises to an acceptable level, there seems to be very little fuel flow. I am in the process of tracking the fuel pressure regulator (somewhere in the rear above the tank) and will try to pull the pump. This car (not mine) has only 60K on the clock. You would think the fuel pump would last better than that. But perhaps with no (or little) use, it has corroded (with only a 1/4 tank of gas and sitting for 3 years.
I think it does use a weird vacuum routing from the emissions system to the fuel pressure regulator. If this leaks or malfunctions, there will likely be a problem.
For the record, there is a lot of misinformation around this model. 2000 S80 2.9L does NOT have a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. (It has a damper that is designed to minimise pressure fluctuations in the rail). It also does NOT seem to have a Fuel Pump Control Module (it is not on the wiring digram and I certainly can't find one). It does have a horrible fuel return "loop" buried above and around the fuel tank gathering crude and muck. I have yet to access that. This appears to have a "roll over shut off valve" and the pressure regulator (and filter). It appears I need to remove the seat back (not just the seat base) to access this from above. Could the shut off valve be stuck? Sigh. More digging required.
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post