In the midst of a steering rack replacement

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 18 Jun 2016, 14:33

Good times. Had a quote of 4.5hrs for $350. Should've done it or called Automeister for a quote. Have the old one out, about to slide the rebuilt unit in. On the tie rod measurements and transfer to rebuilt unit we have the passenger side (right side, in North America) dead on, driver side won't go in the extra 1/8" it needs to go and bottoms out. Luckily we have a toe-in/out rod to get it close until I can get it realigned. That rear motor mount and lower steering coupler is a BEAR. Held me up an hour or more (including coffee/smoke/swearing break). I need to buy a lift, this is ridiculously annoying process on a gravel/crushed stone driveway.

Post by **oragex** » 18 Jun 2016, 15:20

$350 is indeed a gold deal when it comes to replace the rack

A few persons mentioned some tie rod brands (inner or outer) not having the original spec length causing the toe not to come withing the adjustment specs. Why was the rear mount hard to get, seized bolt? The lower coupler is horrible but the steering shaft can be disconnected from inside the cabin.

That back massage though

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 18 Jun 2016, 19:31

Cardboard on the ground, but the stones find their way though. Sent an email to RackDoctor. Apparently they must be the wrong tie rod ends installed (well, as you notified me... a brand with wrong specs). Probably voiding the warranty but have to go get new ones in the AM and compare to ones on old rack... plus new clamps for boots. That's all I need... more $ spent. LOL.

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 18 Jun 2016, 20:23

I can't seem to find the thread you mentioned, but I went to find local big box parts stores that would have them in stock (0'Reilly's, AutoZ0ne and Adv@nce). The local state-wide store has them, but are closed on Sundays. Autoz0ne has them... both the long and short one. I saved the large pictures of the Dur@last and the V@luecraft images that supposedly fit, both looked to be different lengths. I went into PSP and mirrored one and scaled to match the stud diameter and positioned them. Flipping back and forth, it's obvious of the ~1/2"+ difference in length.

Post by **vtl** » 19 Jun 2016, 07:17

oragex wrote:Why was the rear mount hard to get, seized bolt?

Mine is almost stripped, could not get it moving even with impact wrench

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 19 Jun 2016, 07:21

Rear mount was hard to get to because of sway bar and angle it was at.

SO confused. Just pulled the boot of the rebuilt rack on the suspect side. Correct tie rod as original. Outer tie rods are to the jam nuts and jam nuts are all the way in. No more toe-in available and have 5/8" of toe in (supposed to be pretty much 0". What in the living hell I'm going through is going on?

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 19 Jun 2016, 09:46

Figured it out. Measured length of rack where the inner tie rods meet rack rod. 33". Same as old one, correct steering rod. Tie rod ends are exactly the right length (yes, correct ones), BUT the old tie rod ends have about 1/4" lead-in where there is no thread. Bright sunlight helps. What we *thought* we saw was that the outer tie rod ends were bottom tapped. After all this measurement and looking with the sun straight into the outer tie rod end... it's NOT bottom tapped. Not going out to drive 20+ miles to look for replacement inners. Chase grinding the threads back and calling this debacle good.... hopefully.
Moral of the story, if you purchase inner tie rod ends you want the threaded end to look like this:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 56&jsn=354

NOT this:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php ... 56&jsn=353

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 19 Jun 2016, 11:48

Yup, that did it. Will be perfect 0 deg toe when we're done. Ended up using Dremel to get threads back 1/4", used angle grinder to take 1/8" off the ends of the new taper and all is good.

Post by **oragex** » 19 Jun 2016, 15:54

Thanks for the info Marc. Not sure, but I think Dorman was of questionable quality any way.

Post by **oragex** » 19 Jun 2016, 15:57

vtl wrote:
oragex wrote:Why was the rear mount hard to get, seized bolt?
Mine is almost stripped, could not get it moving even with impact wrench

Scary, on mine that bolt plus the rear ones steering rack to subframe look like from the 2nd world war too.
<runs spray some liquid wrench just in case>