98 S70, N/A upper torque mount arm installation

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 20 Jun 2016, 19:05

Hey all, just had a quick question.

I failed horribly at getting a new upper torque mount bushing in (Lemforder too!!!). Even with a press. And I managed to tear the round metal ring on the upper torque mount arm. I am going to chalk this one up to "too much positive thinking on my part."

Is there any secret to doing this job? I am imagining that I have to take off the cap and rotor to get at some pieces. Is there anything else I should be aware of? I've searched and searched but can only find instructions on how to get a bushing in. Not how to replace the whole arm. Thanks guys.

Post by **oragex** » 20 Jun 2016, 19:53

I heard it's hard to get in. Meanwhile, replacing the whole mount it's a breeze.

If you can find some large diameter metal piece to fit the bushing ring, I'd punch it out/in with a heavy mass.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 20 Jun 2016, 21:17

Ok, I'll take your word for it, oragex! Thanks for the heads up! I'll try not to mess anything up when I take out the old arm and put the new one in!

I ended up cracking the metal where the bushing is pressed into! I was using Robert's tool, too! Kind of bummed that I'm putting in a Pro Parts Sweden piece (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-3524345).

Sommerfeldt · Post by **Sommerfeldt** » 21 Jun 2016, 03:25

I got a bushing from Volvo that was too large - went back with it and had them measure and compare to a couple of others they had in stock. About ~2mm too big compared to the others, and that's why mine didn't go in at all.

I asked them about it, and if it's definitely too big, there's no harm in shaving a tiny amount off them with fine sanding paper - it's supposed to be hard to get in there, but not impossible, dammit.

- S

Post by **E Showell** » 21 Jun 2016, 04:37

You can always use the old freezer trick. Put the bushing in the freezer the night before your installation attempt to get the rubber to shrink a bit. It has helped with mine. Ever so, they are a bear to get in. Less frustration-inducing is a replacement of the whole arm.

Post by **erikv11** » 21 Jun 2016, 06:14

It does sound like the bushing must have been too big. Lots of troubles recently with manufacturing specs on this part, what a hassle.

If you want a used OEM torque arm I'd sell you one cheap. But it wouldn't have a bushing in it, you'd still be stuck with doing that job ...

Pezgoon · Post by **Pezgoon** » 21 Jun 2016, 07:14

I just did this yesterday, damn that was tough but after I finished I realized some of it was my own fault, few notes. Use the carriage bolts as shown! Dont do hex bolts like I did it'll never go in! The carriage bolts help it stay straighter. I used washers with electrical tape around them to steady the bolts in the middle of the pipe flange it helped alot. And finally if it starts getting side ways put a socket between it and the arm, this was the way I finally got that thing in. Idk how strong you guys are but trying to steer that thing by hand just made it pop out. Once I had the sockets there they just straightened it out and started sucking it right in.

I cant believe you tore the metal piece thats crazy!

All in all, I spent 35$ including the bushing and parts to put it in, proparts completed piece was 38$ I know I may have the pieces now for future times, but next time, I'm doing the whole arm. I thought it looked like a pain to replace as well, but it couldnt be harder than trying to get that stupid bushing in

Post by **cn90** » 21 Jun 2016, 08:36

If you have a bench grinder, take some stuff off the Lemforder, it will be much easier to install.
Removing about 0.5mm all around, life will be much easier.
I wonder how they pressed it in at factory.

PS: I find the freezer trick not useful, by the time it is out of the freezer, positioned in place with all the bearing adapters, the bushing is at room temp anyway.
As mentioned, shave the bushing a bit, then use oil to lubricate it during pressing.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 21 Jun 2016, 08:53

It was insanely hot in the driveway when I was doing this yesterday. Maybe that was the culprit. I don't know. I might've just left the bushing in place had the metal not cracked. (And if I could get the press piece off...) I should've shaved it down a little bit. Lesson learned! Here's where the bracket arm cracked.

Post by **theWIFES_S70** » 21 Jun 2016, 21:11

Just wanted to update this thread. I received the ProParts piece today from FCP, took a day to get here. (Love how close I am to FCP sometimes...) The ProParts piece seems lesser quality. For example, the ring that I broke on the original mount is only spot welded in three places. And there's no "mark" telling you how to line up the bushing. But at $70 less than a Volvo piece, I think it's worth it. The bushing is a little loose. I almost put in the warped and ripped Lemforder I tried to install into the old torque arm. But then decided against it. I'll keep an eye on it. It's more stiff than the broken one that was in there originally. But not by much... I'll try a Lemforder if I ever attempt to do this job again. But I will order three of them and use the one that works...

Tips on getting the torque arm out:
- The torque arm is secured with two bolts (toward the bottom) and one nut (near bushing). You don't have to remove anything except the air filter box and the camshaft (or crankshaft?) wire clip.
- Use some flex head sockets or u-joints. (I've been using this Gearwrench set http://www.gearwrench.com/sockets-and-s ... t-set.html for a while and I don't know what I ever did without flex head sockets. I love it. I got it for $45 on eBay.)
- Be careful with the heater hoses down there.
- After you get the bolts loose, you might not be able to just pop off the arm. I was only able to pop off the front of the arm. The back of the arm was really wedged in there. I was only able to get it off when I wedged in a long four foot piece of metal back there (re: a piece of rebar or an extra long screwdriver) and tapped it with a hammer. Then it came right off. Took me over an hour to think about going that route.
- Install your bolts. I used Loctite. Remember to install the bracket in the front bolt. (I forgot and had to go back in there!). Don't go too nuts, you're threading into an aluminum block.
- Thread the nut on top.
- Thread and nut your mount.
- Pray the car turns on!

Took me about two hours...

I'll take a picture of the arm tomorrow and post a picture. The car turned on. Seems to be vibrating less than before. However, after idling for ten minutes, I smelled something burning... I'm hoping it's nothing major. But I'll check on that tomorrow... Sigh! Thanks for the support everyone.