Hey guys.. I wanted to follow up some more for future searchers with the same issue..
Always seems like people find their answer but never post the end result or solution.. So frustrating..
I found this searching for RCV failure.
This guy did exactly what I had planned to attempt to see if it would fix my issue.
Here is the link.
http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?s=6 ... 611&page=3
But I will follow up with my own xc90 version once I can get the guy to drop his car by.
If this method proves successful.. It was save us from the ~$110 for new RCV.. And many times people think a new compressor is needed (almost $600!) when it is just the refrigerant control valve at fault.
Almost all professional shops would not do this.. They would rather just replace compressor and never dive into this trying to save the owner some money.
If you do it fast enough or thoroughly plug the lines when doing the work.. You won't even need to replace the Drier.. Just add some oil.. Pull vacuum for atleast an hour.. And 30mins to test for leaks.. and add proper amount r134a
2005ish xc90 AC pressures strange
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Kongztt gt28rs MD
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 20 May 2015
- Year and Model: 2005 volvo xc90
- Location: Maryland
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jimmy57
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- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
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Attach gauges, start engine and turn on a/c.
Unplug the control valve and watch the pressures.
Provide 12v and ground to the two wires in the connector to the valve, polarity is not important, and see if the pressures change. Unplugged is lowest compressor function and 12V is highest function so a working control valve would increase high side pressure and reduce low side pressure.
If it is quiet then applying 12V to control valve connector will make an audible click. DO not keep 12V applied to control valve for more than 2-3 minutes.
Unplug the control valve and watch the pressures.
Provide 12v and ground to the two wires in the connector to the valve, polarity is not important, and see if the pressures change. Unplugged is lowest compressor function and 12V is highest function so a working control valve would increase high side pressure and reduce low side pressure.
If it is quiet then applying 12V to control valve connector will make an audible click. DO not keep 12V applied to control valve for more than 2-3 minutes.
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Kongztt gt28rs MD
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 20 May 2015
- Year and Model: 2005 volvo xc90
- Location: Maryland
Right...the only opportunity I have had to try small tests is while at work..
I didn't have spare leads around to apply 12v to the connector.. I did however test the ohm.. Getting 12.2ohm.
When I disconnected the valve it did not seem to change pressures..which make me feel it is seized from debris.
I just hope I can reuse the O-rings.. I do have a large kit of misc O rings.. But not sure of sizes match up perfectly yet.
He lives about 1 hr from me.. So I try to accomplish as much as I can while at work.. But when I must pull vacuum.. I will try to take his car to my house where I have all testing and tool equipment I will need
I didn't have spare leads around to apply 12v to the connector.. I did however test the ohm.. Getting 12.2ohm.
When I disconnected the valve it did not seem to change pressures..which make me feel it is seized from debris.
I just hope I can reuse the O-rings.. I do have a large kit of misc O rings.. But not sure of sizes match up perfectly yet.
He lives about 1 hr from me.. So I try to accomplish as much as I can while at work.. But when I must pull vacuum.. I will try to take his car to my house where I have all testing and tool equipment I will need
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[email protected]
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 19 April 2016
- Year and Model: 2008 XC90
- Location: Florida
Hello, did you get the AC fixed? If you did let me know what you did as I have the same problem with mine
Used this forum to diag and source repair of wife's 2007 XC90. A/C just wasn't putting out enough cold to keep up with heat demand here in Houston and the symptoms were very much inline with this discussion. Discovered thru this article that the car had a VD compressor. This is why the gauge pressures were hard to interpret. Decided to take the dive and work the problem by replacing the described control valve/solenoid. Purchased part on line for $100 +shipping. Equalized the system and replaced the valve. You will need a thin wall open end wrench, preferably a 14mm bicycle cone wrench works because after you get the securing snap ring out of the way you have no way to grab the valve. The boss were the power wires go into it has flat sides...that's were the wrench goes. A little twist and valve comes out. Had to buy new vac pump (old one went tit ups) $100. 3 cans of r134a and still beat the price of a compressor by +50%. Sucked down the system, popped first can and the compressor wouldn't start (jumped the high pressure switch with a test lead). The engine went to limp mode (cleared later w battery disconnect) and the compressor started. Finished both cans and a bit of a third (the rest went to toe up my Honda's a/c. You can hang meat in this dang thing now! Output is good, pressures are eh.....38/150 ish. Dual thermostats working properly. ALL GOOD. Impressed myself. Thanks!
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