Front struts do I have to remove the axle bolt and caliper

litewait · Post by **litewait** » 28 Jun 2016, 18:47

Replacing worn struts '05 S60 2.5T AWD at 150k. I am purchasing quick struts from FCP Euro. Watched their video on how to replace them and they tell you to remove the axle bolt to remove the strain on the drive train (I guess it might droop to much when the strut is off) and remove the caliper.

Since I am doing this on jack stands I assumed I could just wedge something under the control arm so it doesn't droop. Will this work?

I assume caliper is to only make room to fit the strut up in the wheel well.

Any advice would be appreciated.

JeffHicks · Post by **JeffHicks** » 28 Jun 2016, 20:18

I cannot speak to the '05 S60, but I've done this on my '99 & '04 V70s, and my '02 XC70. I haven't removed the axle-bolt, though it would be no big deal to do so.

Post by **abscate** » 29 Jun 2016, 03:08

It should be doable without removing axle blot.

If you do remove it, however, it is a one time use,as is the steering knuckle bolt/nut combination. These bolts are torqued to yield so they are destroyed on installation, if done correctly

Post by **oragex** » 29 Jun 2016, 10:58

We usually do and highly recommend getting Super Touring blue sticker Sachs - being a AWD you want to make sure (call Volvo) you get the right strut, I might be wrong but I'd guess their are different for the AWD as I bought myself for my FWD and I think the guy send AWD struts because the front of the car is risen now. Same for the rear, the AWD's site higher from ground than the FWD

So new struts, new - ask here on forum which brand - upper spring mounts, and even strut bearing. All these are worn now if originals. Can only tell, by all means go with the recommended brands, I threw $500 by the window because I didn't listen. FCP Euro or any other known site sell both junk and quality parts.

Since it's the first time, I would remove the axle bolt and make sure the axle is moving freely an inch or so inside the spindle. This is safer than leaving the bolt in place, so as not to disrupt the CV joint. Even if the axle bolt is removed, the axle should not hung free (hung horizontal with a wire) or the CV joint becomes dismantled (happened to several people). See this video I just shoot, since both my struts are out of the car at this moment.

While there, look upwards inside the strut tower, this place is prone to rust.

Steve H · Post by **Steve H** » 30 Jun 2016, 11:29

OK, I did my 2008 and this is what I found. I removed the axle bolt to allow it to "float" in the front bearing just to discover that Volvo had a TSB for axle ping noise in which they glued the splines with Loctite red bearing set which was like welding it in there. I hope you do not have it present when you remove your axle bolt.

Then have no worry about the control arm needing supporting unless your bushing are shot. It actual springs up from the bushing twist. I setup jack stand on the subframe in line with the axles and control arms, then used a ratchet strap routed under the jack stand and up to the control arm to ratchet the control arm down and it to hold down and out of my way allowing the strut to be removed without having the control pushing up causing an issue.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 05 Jul 2016, 13:52

Axle bolt: yes. You want the axle shaft loose in the hub so that it can slide back otherwise you risk overextending the inner joint (tripot). Alternately you can release the inner joint from the transaxle, however, in doing this you run a risk of damaging the shaft seal while you're manipulating things around.

I recommend removing the ABS sensor from the hub. It takes 1 minute (small M8 bolt). Don't disconnect the wiring loom. Just pull the sensor from the hub to get it (and it's wire) out of the way.

It is not necessary to remove the caliper whatsoever. Just be careful not to strain the hydraulic hose or let the hub rest "forward" while you're servicing the strut assembly.