2001 V70 XC - CV Axle replacement, front passenger (right) side

[jacksvolvo]

So apparently having a 2001 Volvo V70 XC makes it very hard to search for how-to's, videos, and advice. Maybe it's just me....

A couple of days ago I changed the pads and rotors on all four corners and noted that the inner boot on the front passenger axle was split all the way open, and the joint looked pretty dry. I hadn't noticed any noise, but was lucky enough to find it (or unlucky, I guess).

I decided to replace the entire axle instead of the boot. Rubber boots are $20, plus you need a $10 tool to tighten the metal band, additional grease.... it just seemed like too much work to replace the boot, and for just $40 more than a rubber boot I had a whole new axle (with new boots, inner and outer!). O'Reilly's Auto Parts had a rebuilt axle available for $60 after exchanging the core (or twice that for a brand new axle). It just made sense to replace the axle, especially since the bearings inside the joint were likely damaged depending on how long the boot was split open, and who knew how long the outer boot would last. Not worth all that trouble just to do it again - the minimal extra $$ was well worth it in the end.

I initially found it very hard to dig up info on how to do this on a V70 XC (P2 chassis), so with some basic knowledge I set off. It took me two hours, and would probably take me one hour if I had to do it again. Loosen the center hub bolt, get the car jacked up and remove the wheel - Here are some things I found out while getting it done:

1) The axle is blocked by the strut no matter which way you turn the wheel. You'll have to remove the strut first in order to remove the axle. Look up how this is done - very simple with the exception of having to jack up the control arm to remove the sway bar. Once the strut is out, the hub will naturally want to tip away from the car, and all you have to do is finish pulling the little end of the axle out and it will tip even further.

2) After removing the sway bar, with the control arm still jacked up, put the ABS sensor wire over the sway bar so the sway bar is free to fall away back away from the axle. This will give you even more clearance if needed.

3) It helps to loosen the bracket that holds the long section of the shaft that goes into the transmission (up behind the inner joint). You can find it by removing the plastic shield under the car and shining a light up behind the joint. There are two 12mm bolts holding it together. I just took them both out and removed half of the bracket for extra clearance. You probably just need to loosen it up.

4) Once you have the strut out, the little end of the axle out of the hub, and the upper bracket disassembled or loosened, the axle will pull right out. I didn't need to pry on it at all - maybe I'm lucky, but it came right out.

If you need an entire How-To, let me know and I'll try to write one up. It's a very simple operation, and with a few tools you can get this done in a couple of hours with $60.

Happy with the way this turned out!

[chrism]

That's cool. Nice job!

Curious about the rebuilt axle you got at O'Reilly's - did it look like a rebuilt Volvo (GKN) axle, or rebuilt Something Else brand?