Tell us where we can get more info on it and order it too.
Thanks in advance!
MIJ
Edit: Guess you were talking about the K&N...I was interested in the other one I responded to earlier. Already have a K&N, and yes, it does make a difference.
K&N Performace Filters - Join the club!
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MadeInJapan
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 13434
- Joined: 31 March 2005
- Year and Model: '98 S70 T5 '07S40T5
- Location: Knoxville, TN American but born in Japan
- Has thanked: 17 times
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Auburn T5
- Posts: 86
- Joined: 11 May 2007
- Year and Model: 1999 S70 T5
- Location: Birmingham, AL
- Been thanked: 2 times
K&N drop in filters should be part of a good stage zero in my opinion.
I've got one in my car and my wife's S70T5 also. I couldn't tell what difference it made since I really only drove my car home and put the filter in there along with a new ignition and a host of other things but the collective gain felt from changing out all of those things was very noticable. Not so much the power added but the smoothness of idle and power delivery.
Also worth noting is that you can remove that little plastic piece behind the grill on the driver's side using a torx bit to unscrew that single screw and pull that plastic piece out and give the air tube that feeds air to the air box some cold air rather than a big piece of plastic totally blocking the entrance
Now THAT I did feel a power increase from.
cone filters and these aftermarket "cold air" kits are a waste unless you can get the filter down out of the engine compartment.
Still, it's a lot of work for minimal gains. The factory air box (although large and obtrusive when you're working in the engine area) is very well designed and effecient.
I've got one in my car and my wife's S70T5 also. I couldn't tell what difference it made since I really only drove my car home and put the filter in there along with a new ignition and a host of other things but the collective gain felt from changing out all of those things was very noticable. Not so much the power added but the smoothness of idle and power delivery.
Also worth noting is that you can remove that little plastic piece behind the grill on the driver's side using a torx bit to unscrew that single screw and pull that plastic piece out and give the air tube that feeds air to the air box some cold air rather than a big piece of plastic totally blocking the entrance
Now THAT I did feel a power increase from.
cone filters and these aftermarket "cold air" kits are a waste unless you can get the filter down out of the engine compartment.
Still, it's a lot of work for minimal gains. The factory air box (although large and obtrusive when you're working in the engine area) is very well designed and effecient.
2020 - Tesla Model 3 Performance
2020 - XC60 T5
1999 S70 T5 - Bilstein touring shocks/struts, B&G S2 springs, OBX full exhaust, other misc. stuff
2020 - XC60 T5
1999 S70 T5 - Bilstein touring shocks/struts, B&G S2 springs, OBX full exhaust, other misc. stuff
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petershen1984
- Posts: 271
- Joined: 13 October 2003
- Year and Model:
- Location: Taipei
I've come to realize that reoiling the K&N filter is a hassle (read: I'm not good at it). When I first used the filter I was driving a 1988 740, and then the filter was transferred directly onto my 1992 960. So I never realized how it changed the performance of an engine that's already twice the horsepower of the old one.
Anyhoo, I unplugged the CHECK ENGINE light (it kills your Volvo's driving pleasure), but I occasionally check codes from the A terminals. Apart from the recurring EGR valve 241, I began to see code 511, for long term rich fuel mixture at idle. Maybe the computer and the MAF sensor tries its best to adapt itself to the new air/fuel mixture but it doesn't know the K&N so well.
Professional Volvo opinion (non OEM but an independent Volvo guy) says that the performance gains aren't great for N/A cars and more noticable for turbocharged cars. However, in his shop that day was a turbocharged 850 2.5 undergoing an engine overhaul because he tried to race through flooded waters from bad weather. One of the piston rods broke under stress and all pistons were repaired. He blames K&N's less restrictive properties which consequently allowed more water to be aspirated into the intake. Granted, there's no guarentee that the OEM paper filter is more effective in blocking water, but... I think his conjecture is quite plausible (given the higher dirt-past-filter discussion).
He also added that the new management electronics (Motronic 4.4) in the 1996 model year 960 will adapt better to the increased airflow from the K&N filter. His conjecture makes perfect sense, because officially, the same year, the computer/sensors were revised in order to fix drivability issues in mountainous altitudes (oxygen content aware).
Rather than going back to OEM for now, he effectively "tuned" my K&N filter by blocking one-thirds of the filter area. This is analogious to getting a wider garden hose (upgrading to K&N in the first place) and pinching the rear end to increase water pressure. Even if his treatment was irreversible, I can always go back to OEM paper filter. For all I know, the car is running smoother than it has been for the past year.
Anyhoo, I unplugged the CHECK ENGINE light (it kills your Volvo's driving pleasure), but I occasionally check codes from the A terminals. Apart from the recurring EGR valve 241, I began to see code 511, for long term rich fuel mixture at idle. Maybe the computer and the MAF sensor tries its best to adapt itself to the new air/fuel mixture but it doesn't know the K&N so well.
Professional Volvo opinion (non OEM but an independent Volvo guy) says that the performance gains aren't great for N/A cars and more noticable for turbocharged cars. However, in his shop that day was a turbocharged 850 2.5 undergoing an engine overhaul because he tried to race through flooded waters from bad weather. One of the piston rods broke under stress and all pistons were repaired. He blames K&N's less restrictive properties which consequently allowed more water to be aspirated into the intake. Granted, there's no guarentee that the OEM paper filter is more effective in blocking water, but... I think his conjecture is quite plausible (given the higher dirt-past-filter discussion).
He also added that the new management electronics (Motronic 4.4) in the 1996 model year 960 will adapt better to the increased airflow from the K&N filter. His conjecture makes perfect sense, because officially, the same year, the computer/sensors were revised in order to fix drivability issues in mountainous altitudes (oxygen content aware).
Rather than going back to OEM for now, he effectively "tuned" my K&N filter by blocking one-thirds of the filter area. This is analogious to getting a wider garden hose (upgrading to K&N in the first place) and pinching the rear end to increase water pressure. Even if his treatment was irreversible, I can always go back to OEM paper filter. For all I know, the car is running smoother than it has been for the past year.
Peter Shen
1992 Volvo 960 (Silver)
1992 Volvo 960 (Silver)
I have had a K&N filter in Mine for over a year definatly helps a little, but make sure you let the oil dry completely, I had to replace my MAF sensor a couple of days after cleaning mine.
Previous 93 850 GLT, 95 850 GLT, Current 1998 S70 2.3 LPT 17inch Sport E3, K&N, PBR Deluxe, Cross Drilled F&R. Bilstien touring. Wishlist ECU upgrade, Strut brace, etc.
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petershen1984
- Posts: 271
- Joined: 13 October 2003
- Year and Model:
- Location: Taipei
Marketers can make you believe anything, like how although the K&N is a few times more expensive, it will last (more than a few times) longer than the OEM filter. What they don't tell you is how difficult it is to apply just the right oil (50 cm for the whole "plate"). A few times of this down the road and, after going back to the paper filter, you'll wonder if you really got anything out of K&N.
[disclaimer]Or maybe it's just my car, I don't know.[/disclaimer]
Peter Shen
1992 Volvo 960 (Silver)
1992 Volvo 960 (Silver)
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