'98 V70 Replacing A/C Compressor -- Questions

Post by **abscate** » 03 Aug 2016, 05:17

It means you just ignore the high pressure gauge and hose. You don't have anywhere to connect it.

The valves on the HF set are needle valves so they don't get gorilla tight, just turn them until they seat and then light finger pressure. Certainly not another 1/4 turn.

The full three cans will overload you, so get a postal scale and weigh what you put in. You will get better AC with a slight undercharge than an overcharge, contrary to popular thought.

Post by **E Showell** » 04 Aug 2016, 04:42

Anybody got the spec. on the a/c compressor clutch gap? cn90's right, if I'm all in on the job, I might as well get it right from the get go. Steve, I've got a postal scale so I'll add the r134a by weight. Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Aug 2016, 05:02

Clutch gap specs. Sim for the low side and check all the way around.

Remember to take out any bread clips or zip ties. You will have to come up with the right shims to adjust the gap from Volvo or from your old compressor

Post by **E Showell** » 04 Aug 2016, 05:08

No bread clips or zip ties on the used one I got from Harry's but I haven't put a feeler gauge on the gap yet. . .

Post by **E Showell** » 04 Aug 2016, 14:25

Compressor clutch shims no longer supplied by Volvo per my local dealer parts department.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Aug 2016, 15:32

E Showell wrote:Compressor clutch shims no longer supplied by Volvo per my local dealer parts department.

Do they sell bread clips? - I couldn't resist.

In most cases there are several shims on the clutch and you can get it to spec by removing them one at a time.

...Lee

Post by **abscate** » 04 Aug 2016, 17:11

Can some of you guys junking these pull the shims off the compressors?

Let's get the dimensions, too, as they can probably be sources from Grainger or McMaster Carr

Post by **E Showell** » 06 Aug 2016, 14:15

Big props to the guys at Hackettstown NAPA on Willow Grove Ave. Took the A/C compressor up to get some bolts so I could lever off the clutch plate and remove a shim. I explained what I was looking for and what the job entailed. Before I knew it, we were removing the clutch plate, cleaning off the pulley surface with a Scotchbrite pad, removing the appropriate thickness shim, and putting everything back together. They were extremely helpful and I was the only customer in the store so they could afford to spend a little time really helping me out. I came within a whisker's breadth of not taking the compressor with me, but I figured, why not?

Somethings you just can't get via the internet. . .

Post by **cn90** » 06 Aug 2016, 14:28

If you buy a used compressor from the junkyard, then I'd flush it well with appropriate PAG oil.
Drain and refill a few times to be sure all the junk is out.

You already re-shimmed the gap.

Another issue that is common in compressor with > 150K miles: the bearing free-wheels.

Spin the pulley, if it free-wheels, consider new bearing.
I'd use high-quality stuff like Nachi or NTN ($20 on ebay etc.).

A ghetto way is to lift the seal up GENTLY, inject some grease and re-install the seal with appropriate socket, but you have to be very gentle.

The thread below has all info you need re bearing:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=60561

Post by **E Showell** » 06 Aug 2016, 14:36

Pulley does about one free rotation when spun with a finger, then stops.

Not sure I have the clutch plate all the way tight based on tightening the center bolt. I have to see if it will tighten further, since the math on the gap doesn't add up (or really, subtract out) after I removed a 0.3mm shim. Is it hard to seat the plate all the way down on the splines with the compressor out of the car and flopping around on a table?

'98 V70 Replacing A/C Compressor -- Questions

Re: '98 V70 Replacing A/C Compressor -- Questions