Buying Control Arms... choices...

Post by **j-dawg** » 04 Sep 2016, 22:27

polskamafia mjl wrote:
The control arm geometry really shouldn't be different between manufacturers unless a really low quality part is used.

I agree, it shouldn't be. All I can say is that I've had an experience in which it was. Don't know how common that is.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 05 Sep 2016, 07:02

: Screen Shot 2016-09-05 at 8.54.39 AM.png (128.79 KiB) Viewed 986 times

If I am correct this rust is caused from some type of flaw in the gasket, seal, or flange -- or whatever to call it --around the tailgate window.
I removed it and the progression of the rust seems to have subsided...

I would focus on some rust protection over control arm brands.

Why Mecheng would you focus on that my friend...
I've got a 20 year old Volvo in Vermont with mechanical problems...

However I should probably paint that area.
Maybe I shouldn't worry about the brand of paint, or matching the white identical.
I would have don't it already.
Should I try to get Volvo white for this or any old white automotive paint?

Post by **misha** » 05 Sep 2016, 07:17

It's easier to replace the whole tailgate in matching color from junkyard.
You would need around 30 minutes for complete job.

All these cars are from 16-25 years old now.
Mine is 19 years old and have zero rust.It's in factory condition.

It doesn't matter how old the car is...it matters in what condition it is.
However......i never seen a rust like this on these cars.

Cees Klumper · Post by **Cees Klumper** » 06 Sep 2016, 02:30

If this were my car I would apply one of those rust converter products (turns existing rust into a paintable black-colored substance and halts the rust), then paint over with a good quality spray paint.

And I've started to think that buying all OEM parts is better than taking any risk, Russian-roulette grade or other, on aftermarket parts because by doing the repairs yourself you already save so much that going for the additional tens of dollars doesn't seem worth the risk of poor quality, and having to do it all over again too soon. I may still buy other than OEM, but then only if I'm reallly sure that I am buying good quality, for example Bilstein or Koni shocks and struts

Post by **cn90** » 06 Sep 2016, 07:21

This is just a generic statement on old cars...

- It depends on your goal: if the car is too old and behaves like a 90-year-old human being (not much life remaining), and is unlikely to last another year, then inexpensive aftermarket part is fine. The goal is to get the car running for another year.

- Even if the car runs fine, but you feel the urge to get the "new car smell", and would like to get rid of it in 1 year, then you can use inexpensive aftermarket part (the next owner will have to deal with it).

- If you plan to keep the car for another 3-5 years or longer, then yes Lemforder, TRW will get you there.

Post by **mecheng** » 06 Sep 2016, 07:46

plumsmooth wrote:
Screen Shot 2016-09-05 at 8.54.39 AM.png
If I am correct this rust is caused from some type of flaw in the gasket, seal, or flange -- or whatever to call it --around the tailgate window.
I removed it and the progression of the rust seems to have subsided...

I would focus on some rust protection over control arm brands.
Why Mecheng would you focus on that my friend...
I've got a 20 year old Volvo in Vermont with mechanical problems...

However I should probably paint that area.
Maybe I shouldn't worry about the brand of paint, or matching the white identical.
I would have don't it already.
Should I try to get Volvo white for this or any old white automotive paint?

Ask any paint guy, its all in the prep, unless you can get into all the cracks and sand the rust off or use rust converter, you are better off finding a new panel. I live in the rust belt too but I couldn't stand driving a car that looks that bad, I would address it before it spreads further; its like a cancer.
Not putting you down, just being honest and I just want to see Volvo's looking great and representing the high quality Sweedish steel they are known for.

Post by **misha** » 06 Sep 2016, 10:12

We are all different!
I can't even stand to drive a dirty car...but there are people who wash their cars once or twice a year.
It's their choice.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 06 Sep 2016, 11:20

Well I'm going to get a 12 oz can of Primer and White paint -- the least expensive they have -- right down the street at my local Federated Fischer Auto Parts Store for under 10 bucks total...
I've already applied Rust Convertor but not sure if it is still holding up...

I'll paint in a straight area encompassing the rust.
And then at worst I'll have a slight off-white color stripe and rust creeping back in.
Maybe by the time I am a centenarian my Tailgate will completely rust and fall off.

I'll post a picture when I am done...

Post by **mecheng** » 06 Sep 2016, 13:47

misha wrote:We are all different!
I can't even stand to drive a dirty car...but there are people who wash their cars once or twice a year.
It's their choice.

I don't wash my car often unless it has salt on it, washing your car too often can cause more harm than good with the moisture. Wax once per year.
When I do wash it, I go for a drive to dry it off.

Post by **polskamafia mjl** » 06 Sep 2016, 13:59

There's no harm in washing too often. If it were, rain would be a much bigger problem.