2005 V70 Clutch switch issue ECM-930C Code (switch, fitment) Topic is solved

Post by **abscate** » 27 Aug 2016, 13:31

SWMBO noticed about three weeks ago, if she stalled the car, she had to cycle the clutch pedal all the way out and then back onto the floor to enable cranking. Im teaching #6 manual and she thought it was important to remind her as there is more stalling on the early learning curve of a M56, of course.

I assumed it was logic but the today I got the P2 version of CEL...engine service required and pulled a ECM-930C Clutch position sensor Faulty signal

Car starts and runs fine, and code has cleared itself for now, so I will test the clutch switch and probably replace soon.

As luck would have it it uses the same switch as my 1999,which I just replaced, so I can trial it for free.

Volvo Clutch Pedal Position Sensor (S60 C70 S70 V70 ) - Genuine Volvo 9472979
Part #: VOL-9472979

Post by **abscate** » 30 Aug 2016, 10:10

Could not read code with the AUTEL 500 series reader
The AUTEL 802 reader read it fine, both pending and set. It also gave me nice counter information.

I pulled the sensor (two screws for the kick plate, unhook electrical connector, clutch switch unsnaps with no tools.

I found it heavily greased. I cleaned it with Electronics cleaner, measured 400 OHMS closed, 4000 Ohms open.
Overall condition of switch is good.

On reinstallation, I still get the ECM -930C code for bad clutch switch connection.

Post by **abscate** » 30 Aug 2016, 10:14

From my earlier experience with clutch switches (same part) the clutch switch wants only 2500 Ohms open, and its is sensitive to this reading, so Im pretty sure Ive found the problem.

Clutch switch is out, and I measure per the following pic - kind of odd that it is out of spec in opposite directions on either end.

269 Ohms switch fully closed
3700 Ohms switch open
Specifications are per pic

Post by **abscate** » 17 Sep 2016, 18:59

Got a new one from FCP measured 250 ohms closed, 3000 ohms open.

Still getting ECM930! I will try cleaning terminals. Next step is verifying wire continuity between clutch switch and ECU

Post by **abscate** » 23 Sep 2016, 11:34

Got back from trip, NYS inspection due end of month, so have to get this SES light off.

Called indie - "Check ECU if the switch is good, its wired direct to ECU"

Looked at diagram, he is correct.

But....as we all know...its never the ECU

Went back to basics and check fitment.

Bingo!

I put the switch back onto the nub on the firewall that was visible - but I noticed the switch plunger action was at an angle and not as straight as a good engineer would have it. The correct nub is buried under the floor insulation and you need a flashlight to see it. Put switch back in right, cleared code, BINGO - solved.

I bet the old switch might still be good. $50 lesson in being more careful before disassembly.

: The nub on the right won't work