Replaced Head on My 1987 240DL-Not Revving

Vic1967 · Post by **Vic1967** » 21 Sep 2016, 15:48

I recently replaced the head on my 1987 240DL Volvo. The result has been that when I turn the key to start it, it 'hard starts', idles real rough, and won't rev when throttle is opened.
Some history: I purchased most of the parts for the head myself, in hopes of saving some money. I purchased the valve springs, all valves, retainers and valve guides. The machine shop that fixed the head provided the valve seals, and reused the existing valve shims.
Once I put the head back in my vehicle, I ran some diagnostic compression tests.
Starting with cylinder #4 (located nearest the firewall) I obtained a reading of 148-150.
Cylinder # 3- I obtained a similar reading (148-150).
Cylinder # 2- I obtained a reading of 120. I then retested, and obtained a reading of 148-150.
Cylinder # 1- (located closest to the radiator and the front of the engine) I obtained a reading of 148.
I replaced the fuel filter, thinking it might be a fuel pressure issue. I also noted that the secondary fuel pump appeared to be working properly.
Any advice as to what the issue may be would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

lummert · Post by **lummert** » 21 Sep 2016, 17:32

Verify that the timing belt is installed correctly.

Vic1967 · Post by **Vic1967** » 21 Sep 2016, 19:12

Thank you for your reply.
I checked the cam shaft. The mark on the cam-shaft gear was in direct line with the mark on the timing-belt cover. I also made sure that the crank-shaft mark was in line with the zero-degree timing mark, and the rotor was in line with cylinder 1.
(Some additional info: this Volvo has 218,000 miles on it, and it's a station wagon).

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 21 Sep 2016, 22:40

Vic1967 wrote:I also made sure

Scan this thread

Vic1967 · Post by **Vic1967** » 22 Sep 2016, 03:03

93Regina,
Have I missed something in your reply to this topic? I'm seeing that you've quoted part of my reply, but nothing else was added.
Thank you.

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 22 Sep 2016, 06:42

Look again...SEE: "Scan this thread," and click on it.

Vic1967 · Post by **Vic1967** » 27 Sep 2016, 13:06

93Regina,
Thank you for clearing that up. I will go ahead with checking out these suggestions. Hopefully something will work and I'll be able to post back with my success.

lifeofgold · Post by **lifeofgold** » 03 Oct 2016, 00:12

All thing being equal, if you did not have this problem before the replacement, then the only variable is the new part, and the installation. If you have checked the proper crank/cam/intermediate shaft position, then check the secondary re-installation items; plugs, wires, cap/rotor, vacuum lines. If all of those check out then it is time to look at the part. Did the machine shop check the camshaft saddles? I am about to replace my head due to the fact that the cam saddles are not aligned and there is not a machine shop in my area that can fix that problem. I discovered that when the head is resurfaced without checking the saddles, a real problem can occur. With a warped head now having a flat surface, the "out of alignment" cam saddles will, at the very least, pinch the cam; and at worst, pull up the head causing head gasket failure. If the machine shop did not check the saddles, you will need to pull the cam, pull the spring buckets, then lay the cam back in the saddles (don't worry, with the buckets removed, the cam lobes wont hit the springs). Start to tighten the saddles, and turn the cam by hand with the sprocket. If the saddles are not aligned, you wont spin the cam at all. If it moves just a little bit, then it is OK, A severely pinched cam will put a lot of resistance on the engine and hinder the ability to rev freely.