oil cooler line repair

[brick_and_motor]

After having just completed this job on my own car, I decided to post some useful tips and information I learned in the process. Hopefully this helps save some folks some hassle.

1) I chose to rebuild the lines myself. I referred to cn90's guide on the trans cooler lines for help. For the most part, it is the same for the oil cooler lines with one big exception - use 1/2in ID (inside diameter) oil rated hose and not 3/8. I wasted a lot of time, a little money, and 6 quarts of oil trying to make 3/8 hose work. The hose I ended up using I bought from O'Reilly Auto Parts, part number HDN 112. You can buy the same hose off of Amazon for less money.

2) Accessing the T30 torx on the clamp holding the lines to the oil thermostat. I found the best way to access this is with the oil filter removed, use a 1/4 in drive T30 torx bit on a universal joint with a long extension (8+ inches or so) and access it from under the car. Way easier than trying to get it from the right hand side through the wheel well.

3) Removing the oil filter is a big help for accessing both the T30 and the 10mm bolt holding up the line brackets.

4) Looking back, I would have decided not to replace the rubber gasket on the oil thermostat. It proved to be a headache trying to get the new gasket to stay put while reattaching the thermostat, even using black RTV to help hold it. Keep in mind that my old one wasn't leaking. If yours is, you're better off replacing it anyway.

5) It's easier to slide the metal lines in the thermostat with the green o-rings on the lines versus the o-rings in the thermostat. I did not have an issue with damaging the o-rings and I imagine this method will help minimize such damage.

6) Removing the 14mm bolt from the A/C compressor that is in front of the 10mm bolt holding up the bracket is a big help and not hard to do. Use a shallow 14mm socket on a universal joint and a couple long extensions. Access from under the car.

Knowing what I know now and having gone through this repair, I feel it will go much faster if I ever need to do it again.

Cheers!

[cn90]

Thanks for the update!

The key things to a good rebuild are:

1. Good hose rated for oil/ATF.
As you mentioned: OReilly Auto Hayden 1/2" hose or same hose on amazon for less ($25 on amazon).
Or local hydraulic rebuild shop, they usually carry all sizes of good hoses; Gates is a good brand.

2. Clean the barb fittings and keep orientation of both ends the same when crimping in new clamps.

3. Re clamping: I like Oetiker b/c it is a good clamp.
I put 2 Oeiker clamps on each end.

BTW, I last rebuilt my trans cooler lines 3 years ago, so far so good.

PS: What clamps did you use? Standard screw-type or Oetiker?

[brick_and_motor]

Thanks for the update!

The key things to a good rebuild are:

1. Good hose rated for oil/ATF.
As you mentioned: OReilly Auto Hayden 1/2" hose or same hose on amazon for less ($25 on amazon).
Or local hydraulic rebuild shop, they usually carry all sizes of good hoses; Gates is a good brand.

2. Clean the barb fittings and keep orientation of both ends the same when crimping in new clamps.

3. Re clamping: I like Oetiker b/c it is a good clamp.
I put 2 Oeiker clamps on each end.

BTW, I last rebuilt my trans cooler lines 3 years ago, so far so good.

PS: What clamps did you use? Standard screw-type or Oetiker?

I prefer Oetiker, as well, and used them on my first attempt at rebuilding the lines. They are slim, smooth and hold very tightly. However, I did not have enough of the correct size on hand when I rebuilt the lines the second time so I used some higher end screw-type clamps I got from NAPA. Since Oetiker clamps aren't stocked by any stores in my area (and probably the whole state) my options were limited given my time frame. If I had a couple days to wait on it I'd have ordered more off of Amazon.

Thanks, also, for your great write up!!

[sleddriver]

Good tips, thanks for the report. Should mine ever need replacement again, I plan on rebuilding as well. OEM for these lines is just crazy $$$$$.