98 v70 na engine mounts -155000 miles Topic is solved

Post by **98v70dad** » 26 Oct 2016, 17:47

Tonight I had an argument with my wife so I decided to go work on the Volvo instead of listening to her. I put the car up on ramps to look at the front and back hydraulic engine mounts. While I was there I took a look at the transmission torsion rod mount and the little hockey puck rubber pad on the drivers side between the transmission and the subframe. Heres what I found: The back mount seems more compressed than the front. From the top of the rubber to the bottom looks like about 3 inches. The steel cable is slack. I can fit 4 fingers(up and down) between the cable and the rubber. I could fit 1.5 to 2 fingers between the cable and rubber radially. In essence the cable seems pretty loose. I see no evidence of tearing or rips or leaking of fluid though. The front hydraulic mount seems similar although everything is slightly less pronounced. The transmission is just shy of the rubber hockey puck pad. .I can move (spin) the pad but can feel just a little resistance on the top side so I conclude that it is in contact with the transmission but just barely. The I really cant conclude anything from looking at the transmission torsion strut. It looks OK and like its begging to be replaced just because it is easy and fairly cheap.

So based on this assessment are my mounts ready to replace? I'm getting a buzzy vibration on acceleration and I've already replaced the upper torsion strut bushing and the front passenger side lower engine mount. After doing the last three engine mounts I'll probably do the subframe bushings. However, I'm just not sure that the hydraulic engine mounts need replacement based on their condition. I'm asking for advice on that. I'm told to buy Hutchinson and corteco mounts. Is the rein torsion mount OK or is there a better choice?

My wife is still mad at me...I handle that myself. You just can't help me with that.

Post by **tryingbe** » 26 Oct 2016, 20:24

155000 and 18 year old rubber mount? I would replace without bothering to check.

Post by **cn90** » 26 Oct 2016, 20:55

My 1998 S70 GLT is now at 180K miles.
ONLY the right hand side mount (near the timing belt area) was replaced at 130K.
The front and rear mounts are still original, zero issues, so I am leaving them alone......for now...LOL.

What are the symptoms of bad front and rear mounts? Specifically the 2 mounts circled in RED?

: Mount.JPG (43.84 KiB) Viewed 2239 times

Post by **98v70dad** » 27 Oct 2016, 05:03

tryingbe wrote:155000 and 18 year old rubber mount? I would replace without bothering to check.

I don't have a lot of free time and I've read that replacing those items isn't an easy job. I don't want to do it unless it's necessary.

Post by **98v70dad** » 27 Oct 2016, 05:33

cn90 wrote:My 1998 S70 GLT is now at 180K miles.
ONLY the right hand side mount (n ear the timing belt area) was replaced at 130K.
The front and rear mounts are still original, zero issues, so I am leaving them alone......for now...LOL.

What are the symptoms of bad front and rear mounts? Specifically the 2 mounts circled in RED?

Mount.JPG

Good question. I'm wondering about that also. I have been wanting to learn the condition of my hydraulic mounts by looking at them, so I finally made time to do that. They looked pretty much OK but maybe deflated. I've changed out the same one you have AND the fwd bushing on the top drivers side mount.

The symptom I'm having is a very buzzy vibration on acceleration that stops immediately when I take my foot off the accelerator. I can feel it in the accelerator and floor pan. I can make it almost resonate by finding a certain speed and staying there.

I figure that old engine mounts are the cause but don't really know. They are a little too hard to replace to just do it to see what happens. I suspect that new ones would improve things ... the question is how much. My Honda Odyssey Van needed new engine mounts at about half the mileage and a third of the age of my V70. That's my only point of comparison.

Post by **cn90** » 27 Oct 2016, 05:41

Yeah,

I did the same thing: Right hand side mount and the TOP engine mount (Lemforder, not Polyurethane halves).
Everything seems fine, I'd not "rock the boat".

Post by **98v70dad** » 27 Oct 2016, 06:35

cn90 wrote:Yeah,

I did the same thing: Right hand side mount and the TOP engine mount (Lemforder, not Polyurethane halves).
Everything seems fine, I'd not "rock the boat".

My vibration issue is pretty annoying.

Its been getting a little worse with time over the last few years. I spend over 2 hours a day in the car commuting so it would be nice if riding in it wasn't so annoying.

But, I agree that its not something that HAS to be done. Its a trade off between being willing to spend a day doing the work and whether or not it will actually fix my problem. The parts aren't that expensive so I'm not worried about the cost.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Oct 2016, 08:36

Good luck with your problems.

Remember - all your Volvo problems can be solved with money. Problems at home can cost you all your money - and still not be solved.

"thank you for showing me how I was wrong" is the cheapest sentence in history.

Post by **98v70dad** » 27 Oct 2016, 11:41

abscate wrote:Good luck with your problems.

Remember - all your Volvo problems can be solved with money. Problems at home can cost you all your money - and still not be solved.

"thank you for showing me how I was wrong" is the cheapest sentence in history.

Excellent advice and a good quote. It was a minor squabble. They are actually relatively infrequent at our place considering we have be married for 30 years. The Volvo provided a good opportunity to chill (literally) outside in the Fall air. The disagreement was actually car related.

I was in trouble for being too particular about $2100 in body shop work (rear bumper) done on her 3 month old, previously beautiful car. I got all the workmanship issues taken care of after several trips back and forth but it took a good deal of conflict with the dealership which she hates. It also required her to be without her car for 2 days which she didn't appreciate - even though I got her a nice rental. I took care of the whole thing and all she had to do was pick up the car on the day it was finished.

The dealer left out many fasteners (bumper was flapping in the wind), missed spots of bare metal that needed to be painted, painted some parts on the undercarriage the wrong color, tore the seal on the tailgate without replacing it and reassembled some interior plastic trim around the seal incorrectly to hide the tear. They did match the paint perfectly on the outside which is nice because it shows the most. I stayed on them until the job was right. This is why I work on my own stuff, but I don't do body work.

Anyhow, any info on the hydraulic engine mounts and rein lower torque link quality would be appreciated.

Post by **sleddriver** » 27 Oct 2016, 12:12

Well, you already know my thoughts on this. It's been well documented. You'll definitely notice AND your daily, lengthy driving-experience will greatly improve. This job will also be much easier given your NA status. First step is to see how much effort is involved in busting loose both top two mounting nuts. I use half ATF/half acetone when necessary.

Kudos to being "too particular"! She's lucky you pay attention to details. My aunt's husband was the opposite, which resulted in shoddy work, half-fixed ________ (FITB), and hen-pecking to do it right. $2100 is too much to accept shoddy work.