Through the wonder that is this forum, I've learned the propshafts are a common thing to go out on our AWD Volvos. Mine is one of them. I also know that folks often go with Colorado Drive Shaft to get a replacement.
Anyone ever tried rebuilding the driveshaft themsevles? I wouldn't even know where to begin, but if it's possible, I'd be open to trying it to save some money. What's involved? Repacking bearings and something with the u-joint(s)? Or if that's out, what kind of local shot would I look for that might be able to rebuild it for me? Again, trying to save money. I'd prefer not to spend $400 to get a replacement if possible. If I must, then I must. But if I can save some money by doing it myself or having a local shop do it, that'd be great. I contacted a local guy who advertised on cragislist. He initially thought it'd cost around $200, but was going to call me back when after he'd had a chance to contact a few other parts suppliers. That was a week ago, and I haven't heard since.
And yes, I know you can run it as a FWD, and there's the whole thing about tires, etc. I get all that. There's been plenty of discussion on that on a number of threads, and I'm currently running it without the propshaft.
I'd like to keep this thread focused on the "how" and if it's possible for a regular guy to do in his garage.
Also, forgive me if this has already been discussed. I looked for a while, but didn't see anything. Plenty on pulling and diagnosing and replacing propshafts, but not anything on actually rebuilding or remanufacturing them.
1999 V70 XC Rebuilding the propshaft yourself?
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PapaHepcat
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1999 V70 XC Rebuilding the propshaft yourself?
Current car:
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Non Volvo cars:
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1999 v70 xc Silver, 170k miles
Non Volvo cars:
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2004 Toyota Sienna, 124k miles
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scot850
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Haven't rebuilt a prop shaft since my 120/140 model Volvo days. The main issue was to ensure each part is clearly marked relative to each other so that each part goes back correctly aligned to retain shaft balance. The main reason we send or pros to Colorado DS is that they ten ensure balance is retained. If you want to re-build yourself, then first you have to find someone to sell you quality parts.
Like I said, I haven't even attempted to take a shaft apart and re-build, so can't help further.
Neil.
Like I said, I haven't even attempted to take a shaft apart and re-build, so can't help further.
Neil.
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cn90
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The problem is parts availability.
Look around eeuroparts, rmeuropean, autohausaz etc. etc.
"Coloradodriveshaft" sells some kit on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-AWD-or-V7 ... odel%3AV70
I don't know which brand "Coloradodriveshaft" carries, but GKN Loebro is usually the OEM supplier for many Euro makes.
Look around eeuroparts, rmeuropean, autohausaz etc. etc.
"Coloradodriveshaft" sells some kit on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-AWD-or-V7 ... odel%3AV70
I don't know which brand "Coloradodriveshaft" carries, but GKN Loebro is usually the OEM supplier for many Euro makes.
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2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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Ozark Lee
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On the salvage yard shaft I bought the carrier bearing was bad so a shop like Colorado Drive Shaft is the only realistic alternative. As has been pointed out Colorado sells the CV joints and U joints are U joints.
The last one I rebuilt myself was the front shaft for a Jeep Grand Cherokee and it was an epic failure. The vibrations at speeds over 40 MPH make the car undrivable. I don't know why it is so touchy, on my old RWD and 4X4 Chevys I could change out the U joints and never have a problem.
...Lee
The last one I rebuilt myself was the front shaft for a Jeep Grand Cherokee and it was an epic failure. The vibrations at speeds over 40 MPH make the car undrivable. I don't know why it is so touchy, on my old RWD and 4X4 Chevys I could change out the U joints and never have a problem.
...Lee
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gooproduct
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I know this is an old thread but, I bought a props haft for my '99 from Colorado drive shaft two years ago and it has already failed. It feels like it binds up. Not sure I want them to repair it. I found a local drive shaft shop here where I live I may try out.
Just wanted to say, 2 years on a drives haft from Colorado at $410 is not good in my book.
Just wanted to say, 2 years on a drives haft from Colorado at $410 is not good in my book.
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Are you sure it's the drive shaft that is failing?
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99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 225k miles, currently inop
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- BEJinFbk
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Not sure what you mean by "feels like it binds up".gooproduct wrote:I know this is an old thread but, I bought a props haft for my '99 from Colorado drive shaft two years ago and it has already failed. It feels like it binds up. Not sure I want them to repair it. I found a local drive shaft shop here where I live I may try out.
Just wanted to say, 2 years on a drives haft from Colorado at $410 is not good in my book.
Can you describe the conditions when this happens?
Have you removed it from the car and checked it out?
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gooproduct
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Removing it this weekend. It feels as if the center U-joint is locked in an angle or something and stayes that way while driving. No matter how slow I go, it hits the bottom of the car. It doesn't seem to be an "out of balance" situation. If it was out of balance I would think it wouldn't knock at 1mph, only once I picked up speed. I have looked at the carrier bearing and it feels tight and it looks good.
'77 242 GL (Traded for '77 Saab 99)
'82 245 GLT Wagon (Sold)
'88 245 DL wagon (Sold at 350,000 mi. still running great)
'89 244 Current
'89 740 GL (Sold)
'95 850 Turbo Wagon (Sold)
'99 XC70 Current
'01 XC70 Current
'82 245 GLT Wagon (Sold)
'88 245 DL wagon (Sold at 350,000 mi. still running great)
'89 244 Current
'89 740 GL (Sold)
'95 850 Turbo Wagon (Sold)
'99 XC70 Current
'01 XC70 Current
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cn90
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Another option: if you don't care too much about the AWD feature, then some people simply remove the DS, converting the car into a FWD vehicle and done with.
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2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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