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Etm giving me a headache, advice sought. Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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s10lowrider1994
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Etm giving me a headache, advice sought.

Post by s10lowrider1994 »

Car is a 2000 v70 non turbo, almost 300,000 miles. Yesterday it started idling rough, today it got worse and was hard to start unless I kept my foot on the gas. Stalled out a few times going to the store and back but hasn't thrown any codes. I pulled the etm and cleaned it and the problem went away about 90%, it still hunts for a few seconds when you first start it and will randomly shudder at idle, though barely noticeable. The etm was filthy, car needs Pcv work but I want to figure the etm out first. Car has had the etm done under warranty but that was almost 200,000 miles ago.

Should I give it a more thorough cleaning or is it probably just on the way out? If so are those rebuild kits still available or is Xemodex a better option. Lastly if I pull a matching etm and Ecu from a parts car, will they link up or will I need them to be programmed to my car? I love this car and other than this issue it's great.

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Post by abscate »

200k on an ETm is a good run, but what's the history on plugs and coils?

I would pull those to see if you have a weak cylinder or firing issue before replacing the ETM

The odds of avoiding a dealer software visit on an ETM swap are about 20% from a recent thread, do you need that backup plan.

Be careful cleaning the ETM, you can ruin it.
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s10lowrider1994
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Post by s10lowrider1994 »

Cool packs have all gone at some point or another, I just replaced them as they failed. Plugs were done about 10,000 miles ago, I usually do them about once a year even if the mileage is minimal. You can really kill an etm by cleaning the crud out of it? I didn't disassemble anything electrical, just cleaned out the bore and butterfly as both were pretty nasty looking. Anyway is there a way to test for a failing coil pack that hasn't given up the ghost entirely? I'll probably do plugs just to rule them out too.

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Post by j-dawg »

The conventional wisdom on cleaning the throttle is to wet a rag with carb cleaner and wipe, rather than spraying it directly in as one might with less sensitive engine bits.

The Sacer sensor should be available for a reasonable price on eBay and various Volvo parts websites. It's significantly cheaper than the Xemodex service. It is a pretty involved job, so read the instructions before buying and make sure you're up for it before buying.
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Post by precopster »

For heaven's sake have the car scanned. You might ruin a perfectly good ETM by cleaning it and find out later that the MAF needed replacement. :)

And finally there is an immobiliser section in the ECM that pairs with the key. Unless you have the donor car's original key you can't just replace ECM and ETM. Besides the donor ETM at the wrecker could have the same program version as your own by chance (they're not unique to the car, there is 4 or 5 different ETM software versions that may match on this model year)
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s10lowrider1994
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Post by s10lowrider1994 »

Can I diagnose the MAF with something that displays live data like an ultragauge? The nearest Volvo shop I trust is like an hour away.

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Post by precopster »

Being a Denso non turbo we may not have an example of a healthy reading here. The reading must be stable at idle and have a linear increase with load/throttle increases.

You'd need a live reading such as kg/h or g/sec which something like an ELM327 might give when hooked up to the Torque app however not up to what an Ultraguage can do.
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s10lowrider1994
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Post by s10lowrider1994 »

So I swapped in a known good MAF, changed plugs and it still idles rough. It's not hunting but just rough, smooths out when even the slightest amount of throttle is applied. I did have an issue recently with the cvvt solenoid, I'm wondering if the hub is actually the problem

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Post by Ozark Lee »

A problem with the CVVT will always post a code and do so almost instantly when the car is started. That system is quite touchy so if you don't have a CVVT position code I would say the hub is OK.

I'm not sure where you are in the USA but there are many of us on the board that have VIDA/DICE and, being the friendly sort that we all are, will give a free scan if you are close.

The throttle module circuit is also quite touchy and it is rare for there to be a ETM problem without a corresponding ETS light on the cluster. A scan will reveal a lot.

...Lee
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s10lowrider1994
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Post by s10lowrider1994 »

I'm in northeastern WV but northern VA is a short trip for me if there anyone in the DC metro area. I hadn't driven it much since the issues started so tonight I took it out for a 40 mile drive. It does fine going down the road and the rough idle subsides it seems as long as I'm not sitting at a light for an extended period. Let it idle for 5 minutes or so and the roughness starts to return. My ultra gauge is showing a pending p0300 but that was expected, upon first starting up it misses like crazy. It's strange that all of this came on after it hadn't been driven much for a week or two. At this mileage though that's probably just a coincidence.

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