Exhaust Manifold gets replaced from the top...?

Post by **plumsmooth** » 25 Nov 2016, 10:54

Sorry if this is a naive question but originally I thought it was done from the bottom...

But now looking at the bolts (I finally leaned over far enough to see them) it would make more sense that this job was done from the top.

Although this one looks harder on the lower back than the PCV replacement!

And then there is that frozen nut that needs to be torched...

I'm starting to think this project might be within my ability...

And considering that a new one is only a little over 100 bucks!

Although I just found a local old-timer mechanic just up the dirt road who said he has welded many flex pipes...

Post by **cn90** » 25 Nov 2016, 11:22

From top and bottom. I posted the DIY in your other thread.
I don't think you can do this from the top only.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 25 Nov 2016, 12:18

From top and bottom. I posted the DIY in your other thread.
I don't think you can do this from the top only.

Thanks I meant only the top part and not the CAT part... P.S. I can not believe the angles one has to be in to do some of these Jobs.
Almost thinking it would be easier to sit up on the engine lotus/cross-legged... For this One...

When I finally get to it I probably get a new CAT since the connecting flange is so rusted I can not imagine just reconnecting what will be a patched up 20 year CAT anyway...

Thinking starting fresh is the way to go...

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 25 Nov 2016, 13:01

Just in case it helps, you know the hood opens to fully vertical, right?

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... 3.htm#pg53

Might give you a little better access.

Post by **plumsmooth** » 25 Nov 2016, 13:04

That's funny I never knew that... That's a great tip...

Post by **erikv11** » 25 Nov 2016, 13:05

What cn90 said. Mostly from the top, but a few nuts, especially those on the downpipe side of the manifold, you will need to get at from underneath.

Post by **JimBee** » 26 Nov 2016, 10:53

My new manifold was almost a direct fit. The not quite part was alignment of the outlet flange with the exhaust/downpipe flange.

I had to twist the downpipe a bit to get them aligned. After snugging all the bolts to the head, and installing the first bolt at the downpipe flange (that one was easy) I was able to use a stick wedged between the firewall and the edge of the flange to rotate it just a bit to get the second bolt in. The third one was hard to align—lots of cursing and a helping hand to get that one in.

If you can get it on a lift, those pipe to manifold bolts will be much easier.

It will be nice to have your exhaust fumes exiting the back of your car rather than getting into the cabin!

Post by **JimBee** » 26 Nov 2016, 10:55

On second thought (did this a few years ago), I think It was the flex joint that I rotated a bit. It's very stiff but it will move a little.

beigg · Post by **beigg** » 26 Nov 2016, 11:02

Turbo 850 would add more potential work. only if you're removing turbo to dp hardware. Those tend to shear off.