850 no start issue. Cranks but won't start

[dubsetter]

My 96 850 na wagon is having a no start issue. I will give you guys a recap of the issues I have had over the past 2 months but here is a quick list of things replaced in the last year:

Spark plugs
Starter
Fuel pump
Fuel pump relay
Fuel injector relay
ECT sensor
Thermostat and gasket
Cleaned up iac from junkyard
Distributor cap and rotor
Cleaned MAF


My first problem started when the temperature got below 50 degrees and the car wouldn't start. I replaced the ect sensor. After doing that I took the car for a test drive. Towards the end of the drive the coolant light came on. Luckily I was close to my house, I lost some coolant but no overheating. The old thermostat gasket had a tiny piece of plastic obstructing the seal. I got a new gasket and some fresh coolant.

Started the car after new gasket and fresh coolant 2 days later and it would crank but not start. I got a code reader and got these 9 codes:

P1507 iac valve closing
1505 iac valve opening
0445 evap
0448 evap
0414 pulsed secondary air injection
system
0202 electrical circuit fault injector 2
0204 electrical circuit fault injector 4
0203 electrical circuit fault injector 3
0201 electrical circuit fault injector 1

I cleaned my iac but it didn't work so I pulled two from the junkyard and cleaned and installed one, as well as put in a new distributor cap and rotor. I also unplugged and checked the connections on the fuel injector and the codes have not shown back up. The evap code has shown up sporadically since I have owned it, I got a new gas cap and I will see if it helps.

I had to jump the car because I killed the battery previously trying to start it so many times. The car fired right up. I let it run for 15 min to bleed the air from when I put fresh coolant back in. I trickle charged the battery over night then took it for a 15min drive the next evening. The car ran great.

I went to get gas on Xmas eve and got a mile and a half down the road and the car shuts down. All lights came on the dash, brakes and power steering locked up. I couldn't get it started, so I had it towed back to my house. Checked for codes and nothing.

I purchased noid lights and tested the first injector. The car fired up for a few seconds and the noid light pulsed as it should until the car cut off. The noid light only came on when the car fired up the first try. After that the car would continue to crank but not start and the noid light would not come on.

Not sure what do next. As usual, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[erikv11]

My first thought is the cam position sensor, or less likely the crank sensor. These are common no-start culprits, both of them cause no-spark. Cam sensor is a more common problem. Can you get used ones easily from the junkyard for testing purposes? At least try re-seating the cam sensor connector, at that time you can also check if the connector is crumbling as they do more and more these days.

[dubsetter]

I will definitely grab a few from the junkyard and keep you guys posted. Would a bad cam position or crank sensor cause the car to shut off while driving?

[erikv11]

Either one of them could cause spark delivery to cease while driving, so that the car shuts off.

[Oitsujosh]

I had a similar situation a couple weeks ago. After a long drive on the way home from my buddies house, I got a check engine code 305 misfire code. I did a check the distributor and felt one of the wires click. I figured that may have been it and rest the ecu. Drove great the following week. On a really cold day went back to the my buddies house and when I left, it died about 1/2 mi down the street when pulling away from a light. No codes crank but no start. I was getting no spark at all and After a bit of testing found the igniter for the coil had gone. I was getting 12v to the harness but none at the two wires to the coil. Luckily the AutoZone right there had one On hand and I was able to do it right then. Its been running like a champ since. Looking way of saying I might check the igniter and coil. On mine it one unit. Good luck.
Josh

[dubsetter]

Update...Got an ignition coil, camshaft sensor from junkyard for testing and...nothing. I ordered a new camshaft and crank sensor and still no dice. After that I pulled two ignition coil lead wires from the junkyard (one OE and 1 NGK), still nothing. Not sure what to do next.
The spark plugs were done a year ago right before I bought it but they didn't replace the wires. I almost bought a new coil, plugs and plug wires but I don't want to keep throwing parts at it. Still no codes. I am thinking of throwing in the towel and having it towed to my mechanic this weekend.

[abscate]

Time for a good shot of ether (starting fluid) into the air intake and isolating a fuel problem from an ignition problem.

Have you tried jumping the fuel pump relay?

[dubsetter]

Tried starter fluid when the car left me stranded. I also tried swapping fuel pump relay when I got stuck as well(I have 2 new ones and a jump wire in the car).
Not sure of the battery condition as it was almost dead before it stopped running due to glovebox light on. I have been trickle charging it until it's full but it keeps getting drained due to all the starting attempts...regardless the car still won't jump

[abscate]

You have to have a solid, charged battery to troubleshoot. If its on the edge, it won't light up the ECU and then you will chase your tail for all time. Get it charged up or swap it into a running car for a week.

No fire with ether means you have a ignition problem, a compression problem, or a timing problem

[dubsetter]

Thought I would update now that the problem has been solved. Turns out the new fuel injector relay I replaced not too long ago went bad. Thanks again for all the replies.