2001 V70 XC rough idle

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 22 Dec 2016, 23:12

Getting closer... still not running right though. Did some searches for Jimmy's posts, may have identified another error. Need the cam pulley bolts to be loose, so the pulleys can float free while the belt is being tensioned. After tensioning, then snug down the cam pulley bolts. I definitely just eyeballed those/left them where they were.

Just talking out loud for posterity here the correct procedure should be:

Line up the crankshaft with the special plug tool or with the marks on the oil pump gear and engine block. Those marks are little tick marks on the engine block side of crowns of the gear teeth, and also an embossed line (which is not straight, kind of L shaped) on the engine block. The line points to the groove in between the two marked teeth.

Lock the cams with the tool in order to line up the grooves on the back and hold them in place while the belt is installed.

Install the CVVT and cam pulley on the exhaust and intake cams. Tighten the 3 bolts on each pulley temporarily in the center of the slots.

Tighten the center bolt on the CVVT enough so you can line it up, but don't torque it until after the next step, since you'll need a couple of tries to line it up.

With the cam tool making sure you don't move the cams, turn the CCVT and line up the CVVT so that the mark ends up lined up to the cam cover at the cw end point of the CVVT's range. When it lines up right, let it go and torque it down to 89ftlbs.

Install the timing belt. Oil gear, idler, intake cam, CVVT, water pump, tensioner. In order.

Loosen the pulley bolts on the CVVT and the Tension the belt.

NOW snug up the cam pulley bolts. Make sure to hold the CVVT at the end of its CW range.

Turn it 2 revs CW to make sure everything still lines up.

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 09 Feb 2017, 14:04

Work has been getting in the way.

I've been working on it here an there. I've gone through the above steps 4 or 5 times now, and each time I reach the end, I'm still off by a tooth or so. I'll post of video later. Maybe got the wrong timing belt??

Post by **precopster** » 09 Feb 2017, 15:31

142 teeth 23mm wide with a 5.5mm spacing is what's required.

They aren't easy to line up. Remove the top of the ECU cover so you can see the notch on the timing cover. I usually need to go back (CCW) one space from where I think it should be.

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 09 Feb 2017, 20:56

Like, you mean, offset it by a tooth so that it lines up after you spin it twice? I've got the starter-plug-hole tool in to line it up. That should be exactly lined up, right?

Post by **precopster** » 10 Feb 2017, 04:46

That starter plug hole is hardly used except by seasoned pros. Looks like you're doing it all correctly. Can't explain it other than you may be letting the exhaust cam slip before you tension the belt.

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 15 Feb 2017, 13:34

Cam can't slip, right? It's locked at the other (non-timing) end of the head by the cam lock tool - back by the cps. I'm doing the tension before removing the cam lock. It does seem like that's where I'm going wrong, though. I tension the belt, hold down the vvt, and snug up the pulley bolts. Everything seems fine, but then right after removing the lock tool and rotating the crankshaft, the alignment was still a half a tooth off. How do I keep it from slipping?

Ah wait, I can take up any slip in the hub by: After tensioning everything. before taking off the cam lock, re-adjust the vvt by loosening the pulley bolts, holding it in the end position with a star wrench - allowing the vvt bolts to move in their slots - then snug up the vvt bolts to the pulley and tension the belt one last time. Can I just do that a couple times until there's no more backlash?

I really am gonna make that video.

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 16 Feb 2017, 15:33

Do I also need to hold the vvt while reinstalling the CPS?

jbeebo · Post by **jbeebo** » 16 Feb 2017, 16:35

When you say CPS, you mean the cam position sensor, on the rear of the head?

Shouldn't need to hold the VVT, timing belt or anything else on the front of the engine. Doesn't matter what position the crank or cams are in when you remove or install the cam position sensor.

The cam position sensor sense ring is aligned to the slots in the camshaft. It's poke-yoke, can only install it one way. Same for the sensor housing, the 2 bolts are offset such that it can only be installed in one orientation on the head. Thus it doesn't matter what position the camshaft is in, the sense ring will align with the cam slots and the sensor housing will align with the head.

Question: after you've aligned the cam gears and crank, installed the belt and tensioned it, you're turning the crank over 2 full revolutions (720deg) and checking alignment of all three gear teeth again right? What happens if you turn the crank 4, 6, 8 revolutions instead of just 2. Do all three marks line up EXACTLY on every 2 full revs of the crank?

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 16 Feb 2017, 21:04

Yes. The sense ring bolts on with a single bolt, in the same hole as the cam lock tool. I can feel the cam slip back when I tighten the ring.

Also, no, nothing ever quite lines up. It looks fine before I take the cam tool off and rotate everything to check.

I've tried starting it a couple times. I can get it to run if I hold the pedal down. Buttoned everything up, gonna tow it to the shop and have them take a look with DICE.