'96 Platinum Wagon: broken timing belt. 7:18am Topic is solved

Post by **abscate** » 06 Mar 2017, 09:59

AM I off base or is 1k a good price on a top end overhaul (assuming everything was refreshed)??

I thought it was closer to 2k all all in.

Post by **erikv11** » 06 Mar 2017, 11:06

For DIY and outsourcing the machine work, 1k is on the high end. If you add up valve stem seals, other seals, timing parts and head work you will get to about $800 using quality parts, but there are always other expenses ...

2k is through the roof, that is more like a shop price. Of course they put in cheap seals and timing parts for that price, too ...

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 06 Mar 2017, 17:47

The PO of my car claimed the head was rebuilt by a local shop about 2 years ago. I assume that was because of a broken timing belt at some point (although I still want to replace it, I don't trust a damn thing that shop did after what I've uncovered through all the work I've done on my car). They never use quality parts unless they're a specialized shop. Like a shop that ONLY services European cars or Volvos.
If you bring your car to billy bob's Ford shop down the road near the farm, he will not take care of your Volvo like it should be. Let each shop do what they do best. Just because they say they can handle it doesn't mean they can!

Post by **abscate** » 07 Mar 2017, 04:46

The range of quality on parts is incredible now. I went to do boat trailer wheel bearing, with my head stuck in 1980s pricing of $5 per race. They were $25. Grumbling , I went around to Tractor Supply and found them for $12. This was after burning $6 of gas to cross town. I got them home looked at the metal, made in PRC, and realized I could not put such crap on any vehicle I own. Back to NAPA for the SKF $25 ones.

splats · Post by **splats** » 07 Mar 2017, 07:13

Yeah, so the machine shop work cost about $550 - that was for disassembly, cleaning, inspection, repair, parts and reassembly (tax, too). He replaced any worn or damaged valves, and a couple of cracked valve guides. He quoted labor at around $350. I would've liked a full rebuild, but I don't have the funds for that.

Then I spent another $400 or so on a full timing belt kit, head gasket kit, head bolts, thermostat, and that anaerobic sealant ($48...!?) that I bought from the dealer.

(Cost of beer, not included.)

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 07 Mar 2017, 08:46

abscate wrote:The range of quality on parts is incredible now. I went to do boat trailer wheel bearing, with my head stuck in 1980s pricing of $5 per race. They were $25. Grumbling , I went around to Tractor Supply and found them for $12. This was after burning $6 of gas to cross town. I got them home looked at the metal, made in PRC, and realized I could not put such crap on any vehicle I own. Back to NAPA for the SKF $25 ones.

Isn't Tractor Supply always on the other end of town? I had to get a socket adapter or something there a while back. Every single store that could possibly sell any tools or parts is closer to me than Tractor Supply!

splats wrote:Yeah, so the machine shop work cost about $550 - that was for disassembly, cleaning, inspection, repair, parts and reassembly (tax, too). He replaced any worn or damaged valves, and a couple of cracked valve guides. He quoted labor at around $350. I would've liked a full rebuild, but I don't have the funds for that.

Then I spent another $400 or so on a full timing belt kit, head gasket kit, head bolts, thermostat, and that anaerobic sealant ($48...!?) that I bought from the dealer.

(Cost of beer, not included.)

Being that the shop did all the head work, the numbers seem spot on. $400 sounds right for all the TB and head gasket parts. $48 for the anaerobic sealant? Geez...