Weird warm no start issue 00 R

Post by **Glencoeteen** » 14 Apr 2017, 18:22

2000 V70R 130k
Car starts great when cold, can warm it up shut it down and will restart no issues, let it sit come back and it spins fast, makes you think timing belt is broken (its intact) or lack of compression... I am wondering if its an issue with the Exhaust cam? i know its variable is it possible that its not returning to a base setting and allowing it to bleed off when trying to restart? i am used to 1998 and prior white blocks.

Post by **misha** » 14 Apr 2017, 18:37

You have a bad bendix.It's part of a starter and it needs to be disassembled in order to be replaced.

Post by **Glencoeteen** » 14 Apr 2017, 19:58

i would have considered that but its engaging, turns over just fine. I am thinking its either the VVT or cam sensor not letting it fire up once warm..

Post by **misha** » 15 Apr 2017, 04:42

Glencoeteen wrote: ↑14 Apr 2017, 19:58 i would have considered that but its engaging, turns over just fine.

Glencoeteen wrote: ↑14 Apr 2017, 18:22... it spins fast, makes you think timing belt is broken (its intact) or lack of compression...

The way you described it...that doesn't sound like it turns over just fine and engaging.
Besides....bad bendix symptoms are intermittent in the beginning....then it gets worse.

Post by **erikv11** » 15 Apr 2017, 08:08

Glencoeteen wrote: ↑14 Apr 2017, 18:22 Car starts great when cold, can warm it up shut it down and will restart no issues, let it sit come back and it spins fast, makes you think timing belt is broken (its intact) or lack of compression...

I agree with mishaps diagnosis in general so far but this post is really confusing, you say it starts fine when warm ("warm it up shut it down and will restart no issues"), then you say it won't start when warm ("let it sit come back and..."). Is there actually any kind of pattern at all?

Post by **Glencoeteen** » 15 Apr 2017, 19:59

well car dropped a valve today, i could only assume that since it was sitting for so long that a lifter was sticking or gummed up allowed a valve to stay open and come in contact with the piston, it will be towed next week to ARD to have them pull it apart and rebuild the head

Post by **scot850** » 16 Apr 2017, 13:59

Well really sorry to hear about the valve issue. This can happen to any 5 cylinder Volvo not just an 'R'. The main difference is if it worth the $2000 or so it costs for someone else to fix. The main advantage of doing the head is then at least is should be good and take the opportunity to replace the timing belt/water pump with the good access.

Also consider the oil pan 'O' ring seals as at that age and having been standing, you may be lacking oil pressure and that may have starved the valve.

I wish you lots of luck!

Neil