Volvo uses the same type of connector for most things.
Just get some from a donor car and de-pin what you need.
Solder and shrink that short length or use a disconnectable
set of crimp connectors to put the right end on your CB lead.
Time for a trip to the JY to get some goodies!
Trying to run power wire through firewall on passenger side
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Teddy1975
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The connector is for the 6 speaker amplifier. There are by-pass wires made for installing aftermarket amplifiers, which have the plug you want, but they might be tricky to find in this day and age.
BEJs suggestion of visiting the junkyard is the cheapest, possibly only option.
And yes, the large red wire in the plug is the 30 amp protected power feed. Pinout diagram can be found here:
http://volvo-850.narod.ru/shem/12589.pdf
BEJs suggestion of visiting the junkyard is the cheapest, possibly only option.
And yes, the large red wire in the plug is the 30 amp protected power feed. Pinout diagram can be found here:
http://volvo-850.narod.ru/shem/12589.pdf
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- SonicAdventure
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Thanks to both Teddy and BEJ. I actually have a complete drivers side door wiring harness that I harvested from my old drivers side door and it's in a bag in my storage locker. I'm going to see what I can scavenge from that harness. Will def. post some pics of this install when it's all done!
- SonicAdventure
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In my ever increasing pile of scrap Volvo parts, I was able to salvage the male plug end off of a broken rear wiper motor. After cutting the leads and unscrewing the ground, I was able (after some delicate and not so delicate prying) to get the leads out. The leads are actually held into the plastic plug frame by the little flexible metal tab on the one side of the metal tip as shown in the orange wire photo.
I'm not sure if these leads were designed to be removed from the plastic plugs, but if I was going to try it again I think something like a short length of .15 gauge guitar string would slide up in the small crevice and possibly disengage the tab. Luckily I didn't damage them by prying this apart.
The small metal tabs all have "amp" stamped on them near the collar. Are these rated for a certain current? Do you think if I carefully splice / solder one of these leads to my CB power wire and use it in space #1 (30 amp red wire) I would be ok? Again these are the power wires for the rear wiper motor.
I'm not sure if these leads were designed to be removed from the plastic plugs, but if I was going to try it again I think something like a short length of .15 gauge guitar string would slide up in the small crevice and possibly disengage the tab. Luckily I didn't damage them by prying this apart.
The small metal tabs all have "amp" stamped on them near the collar. Are these rated for a certain current? Do you think if I carefully splice / solder one of these leads to my CB power wire and use it in space #1 (30 amp red wire) I would be ok? Again these are the power wires for the rear wiper motor.
- BEJinFbk
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There are plenty of tools made specifically for releasing the pins.
They can also be fabricated without too much trouble.
A peice of spring steel, like an old antenna mast,
can be ground flat on two sides pretty easily.
Just use the side of a really fine wheel.
"AMP" is the brand of the connector.
They can also be fabricated without too much trouble.
A peice of spring steel, like an old antenna mast,
can be ground flat on two sides pretty easily.
Just use the side of a really fine wheel.
"AMP" is the brand of the connector.
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
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Teddy1975
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The CBs I used in the good old days had a transceiver with 4-5 watts, something the pins you've found should easily handle. Instead of trying to solder or crimp the pins onto your power wire, you could strip about half an inch of the wire to your CB and tin it, then form the tin with pliers or a small hammer to a suitable shape for the plug. Cut your home made pin to length so the wire seats all the way up against the plug.
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- SonicAdventure
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So I'm pretty much stuck at the last step. I have three wire leads to work with from the old rear wiper motor, but for some reason they are not fitting into the yellow accessory plug. When I try to go in from behind, the two little legs bent at 90 degree angles prevent the AMP tip from sliding in. And from the top of the plug, the area where the wire is crimped is too large to pass through the hole of the plug. Were there different sizes to these AMP connectors? I suppose I could cut the red lead from the main accessory plug and just crimp on an aftermarket connector, but I'd really like to use the plug as-is if possible.
- SonicAdventure
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Hmmm maybe I just answered my own question...the leads insert from the size that folds open right? If so then I think my problem is solved
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Teddy1975
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The last picture you posted with the lead halfway inserted looks wrong to me. It should be inserted from the other side.
And, yes, there are many different connectors with their own pin designs on the car. I hope you'll get it working like that, but for the most reliable connection, you'd need to find the proper pins or just crimp on your own connector. In the event you'll ever want to add the OEM in-dash amplifier (which is the only thing the plug is for), it won't be too much trouble restoring the wire.
And, yes, there are many different connectors with their own pin designs on the car. I hope you'll get it working like that, but for the most reliable connection, you'd need to find the proper pins or just crimp on your own connector. In the event you'll ever want to add the OEM in-dash amplifier (which is the only thing the plug is for), it won't be too much trouble restoring the wire.
Current: V50 2.0D, 2007, 6 speed manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
- BEJinFbk
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?Teddy1975 wrote: 23 Apr 2017, 07:44 In the event you'll ever want to add the OEM in-dash amplifier (which is the only thing the plug is for), it won't be too much trouble restoring the wire.
We're talking about the accessory connector
next to the steering column, not anything
connected with the audio system.
Any OEM in-dash amplifiers pick up power from the
existing HU audio power connector using an optional
harness for that purpose. All of that happens
directly behind the audio head unit.
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
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