Heat, smoke and vibration from rear wheel

[Metallo]

Hi there,

During the last few days, driving my car at 45mph or more I could feel the car vibrating.
Slowing down it disappears but when I stop the car, lots of reddish dust and heat comes out of the rear right wheel.

I have just removed the rotor but I do not see anything wrong with the parking brake shoes and relative springs.

However, I found the pads to be completely gone and with uneven wear, but still I cannot understand where the heat and the red dust is coming from, unless you tell me it is caused by the friction of a completely worn pad with the disk??

How about the vibration with the speed then??
Could it be the wheel hub which is creating the vibration above 45mph and the uneven wear?

Please take a look at the pictures:

















Thank you for your help!

Alex

[abscate]

That caliper piston is rusted up and is sticking the pads against the disc. That's where all the heat and vibration are coming from.

[Metallo]

Hi,

Thank you for you quick reply.

Is this something I can clean (CRC) or you think I should buy a new caliper?
If I have to buy a new caliper, is it recommended to buy also the one for the left rear wheel?

Just to be clear, your refer to this right?



...and, are the hose bubbles below caused by the pressure resulting from the piston no longer working?






Alex

[abscate]

Yeah. If you grab that piston carefully with slip joint pliers it should rotate easily. My guess is it will be stuck.

On a tight budget you can replace one side, but if the other one sticks it ruins your new brake pads.

[Metallo]

I tried already before with the slip joint pliers and I could not move it at all.

I will change both, so I have to buy:

- 2 New (regenerated) calipers
- 2 Hoses
- 1 rear brake pads kit

I will have to flush the brake lines.

Do you have any recommendation on the regenerated calipers?

Alex

[abscate]

Cardone usually uses Cores from ATE, which are OEM

Those hose bulges might just be case defects and not hydraulic failures. Loosen them before you loosen The caliper bolts, its much easier. You can turn the caliper to unscrew it from the hose and save fussing with the union

[Metallo]

Hi guys,

I got all the parts so I removed the right brake hose, which came off easier than I expected, probably because it was replaced only 2 years ago.

Anyhow, I was convinced the most difficult part was done, but I was wrong.

I installed the rubber hose onto the caliper first then I placed the other end to the hard line and began to turn the caliper in order to screw the hose in the hard line.
Once everything was nice and tight, I realized that to put the caliper in place, the hose would twist.

What I am doing wrong?
The only way to avoid twisting would be to rotate the hard line nut, but it seems to me one piece with the pipe.
Is that nut supposed to rotate?

If that is the case, how do I unblock it from the pipe? I mean, I should keep the pipe with pliers and try to unblock that nut?
To summarize, is the nut in the red rectangular supposed to rotate?



Thank you!
Alex

[abscate]

You put the caliper in place with the hard line attached but just a thread or two into the soft line

The nut on the hard line should spin on the hard line pipe, correct. Just grab both with a vice grip and twist a bit until it rotates freely. Put a pure torque on it so you don't twist up the hard line

If you can't get it loose, you play dirty. Remove Caliper, remove soft hose from caliper. Now turn soft hose onto hard pipe and seat threads and seal. Now attach caliper to soft line and tighten by turning caliper in space onto soft hose until it forms up

Install caliper on wheel

Tighten soft hose to caliper nut

[Metallo]

Thank you very much for clarifying this for me.

I prefer the first solution, I guess I can grab the pipe with a vice grip and the nut with the 13mm flare wrench and try to rotate the nut.

I still cannot understand how is it possible that the hose does not set itself in the right form as before, it is the same identical part and brand, in addition, since the nut did not move when I loosed the hose, because I did not want to take any risk with the pipe, in theory everything should have gone back to place as before. It will remain a mystery to me.

Tomorrow morning I will try and let's see what happens.

Alex

[abscate]

The threads On a hose aren't indexed , but the hose should be able to take a half. Twist without kinking or getting funky. Is the boss on the soft hose rotating in the hose bracket ok?

Be careful freeing that nut on the hard line, don't kink that up. You can remove the soft hose and torch it to help unstick it, too. It doesn't look too bad.

I Would remove the soft hose, wire brush the back of the nut hard, add PBBlaster, wait 28 minutes , then vice grip and flare/box wrench it loose. You can box end it loose since its open on the end of course.