PCV/ Glove test failure 04 XC70

[JRL]

I did not replace the big tube, but did clean it out thoroughly.

No, it's not because it's not "cleanable". There is a nipple inside and that is not really cleanable, certainly not while inside the tube.
I don't care what BS people say, you need all NEW (clean) parts, nipples and hoses and the oil passages must be clean.

Next, is the oil passage 100% clean and open to the pan?

[zoli_m13]

I don't want hijacking this thread only some comments may be will response the open question of OP - I'm not an expert, but interested in this topic:

1. Read so many posts describing slight positive crankase pressure after replacement of full PCV system + cleaned the oil gallery in the oil-pan: no vacuum measured after that as well

2. Pre 2002 cars has different designed PTC nipple and long L-shaped vacuum tube like the later designed one.

3. My car has excellent service history (only maintenance by VOLVO dealership and later on by VOLVO mechanic) till approx. 200K miles and I purchased with slight positive crankase pressure (failed glove test), had running for 30K+ miles without issue (less than 1 quart oil burning per 6K miles), no oil level dipstick pops up, no oil seepage from the engine, no oil leakage around the oil cap, only some soot in the tailpipe).

4. Worn piston rings will release some blowby gasses into the crankcase in high mileage engines - to be sucked through the PTC nipple into the inlet tube before the turbo.

5. Super neglected engines with cheap oils for long drain intervals must be inspected carefully - otherwise don't worry so much, if you can blow air through the dipstick tube and you will hear the SSS noise in the disconnected turbo inlet tube from the MAF sensor.

Yes, you could change almost everything in a 15+ years old car, but 'don't fix if ain't broke'...

[blackVolo]

Hi to the forum.

I have a v70 2.4 AT 2003 with 234 000 km on the clock. I believe the engine is B5244s2. When cold starting or warm starting, no problem. No smoke or anything. But after idling or coasting with D selected and then reving, even slight touch of gas pedal, a large puff of blue smoke. I mean large! It's getting hard to drive because I feel shame when driving

Last owners mechanic told me that he unclogged the PVC lines. He did not replace anything, jsut unclogged them. He says it's just oil which has been collected to exhaust, which is slowly burning. I have only driven the car for about 200 km. I topped the oil when I got the car, took about a litre. Now dipstick says it is in the midle.

What should I do?

[zoli_m13]

Interesting read:
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthrea ... nd-testing

[jonesg]

Hi to the forum.

I have a V70 2.4 AT 2003 with 234 000 km on the clock. I believe the engine is B5244s2. When cold starting or warm starting, no problem. No smoke or anything. But after idling or coasting with D selected and then reving, even slight touch of gas pedal, a large puff of blue smoke. I mean large! It's getting hard to drive because I feel shame when driving

Last owners mechanic told me that he unclogged the PVC lines. He did not replace anything, jsut unclogged them. He says it's just oil which has been collected to exhaust, which is slowly burning. I have only driven the car for about 200 km. I topped the oil when I got the car, took about a litre. Now dipstick says it is in the midle.

What should I do?

Start a new thread for better response.
Me, I'd drive it...or talk to a different mechanic.

[jonesg]

Interesting read:
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthrea ... nd-testing

Yeh, thats good stuff.!
Like the idea of running a tube into the car so it can be tested on the road where it counts.

[ogatrulle]

Did you include the (expensive) big tube?
If not you wasted your time and money!

JRL, I wonder if you could expand a bit on your comment above. I have been shade-tree wrenching on Caddys for 20 years but am new to Volvos and just learning about their P2 PCV system design on my new-to-me 06 2.5T. This one stands up the glove at idle when attached to the oil filler opening.

In particular, I read the 4-year-old thread viewtopic.php?t=54449 in which chrism reports replacing only the short length from the top of the oil trap to the heated banjo bolt at the passenger side of the intake manifold. I gather this banjo bolt contains a check valve to block IM pressure when the turbo is activated.

If I just use the 30731007 part, along with replacing/cleaning the oil trap and related passages into the block, that ought to address the issue at idle specifically (do you agree?)

For potential issues in the turbo PCV circuit (the long combo part of that expensive hose assembly that goes to the turbo intake), I agree that it is necessary to clean the PTC nipple. For the sake of the turbo PCV circuit, is it still important to replace the expensive combo hose? In that case, I wonder if it is possible to leave the coolant pipe intact and just replace the vacuum hose component with suitable 5/8-inch hose wrapped with tape to the original coolant pipe.

[abscate]

Even if you can clean it, it's a false economy. The plastic is brittle and crumbly after 15 years of oil soaking and is waiting to break on you coming back for the Captains ball in your dress whites

[ogatrulle]

Even if you can clean it, it's a false economy. The plastic is brittle and crumbly after 15 years of oil soaking and is waiting to break on you coming back for the Captains ball in your dress whites

I think "it" == "oil trap", in which case, I agree. I'm going to replace the trap and associated rubber parts ($70 for that right-angle stub, ack!) But what about the $200 pipe assembly (30731068)? It looks as if the coolant-heated metal pipe part is for the turbo circuit, whereas the non-turbo circuit includes only the short section from the trap top to the banjo bolt at the forward right underside of the intake manifold.

In any case, I'll tear into it in the next few days and see what's blocked. If only the non-turbo circuit is blocked, I am considering keeping the long pipe in place and just replacing the non-turbo part of it with 30731007.

[abscate]

I think metal is okay but anything plastic in this system is junk after 10 years.

The banjo bolt can be a real trouble to install, I found it easier to start it with the intake manifold unbolted. That is, offer up the manifold , start banjo, push hose onto top of oil trap, bolt a couple of intake manifold bolts to hold

Position your hose clamps carefully so you can get tools on them. 1/4 small ratchet rules!