240 A/C...where to start?

dougburgy · Post by **dougburgy** » 06 May 2017, 17:59

Not a total stranger to A/C issues, as I have worked on other car's A/C in a limited fashion (new orifice tubes, finding leaks, dryer media, line o-rings, etc)...but I'm looking for some guidance on this more complex situation. I will have a shop do vac and re-charge, check, etc....but I wanted to do what I can to see about getting A/C operational before summer.

1983 242 automatic. All parts of A/C appear to be intact from what I can see. P.O. put in an "a/c bypass" kit of some sort to run power steering pump direct from crank pulley...which has worked fine once I replaced all bushings (for better alignment) and got tension adjusted properly (to eliminate the squeal from hell). A/C compressor can be turned by hand with no grinding or other bad noises (I realize that does not mean it is fine and operational however). I have no concept of what could be wrong with a/c system. Could have been bypassed because it's totally worthless...or bypassed just to bypass an otherwise functioning a/c system (seen that before). So I'm staring from scratch here with very little knowledge of existing condition or ins and outs of this particular volvo system. Gulp!

So...where would be a good place to start? I assume this is old style freon and that can be problematic finding a shop that can/will deal with that. Not sure what would be involved in converting to R134a, etc. Any thoughts on this? Without knowing more, I'm thinking best approach might be:
1. Replace any o-rings accessible in lines/fittings. Inspect lines/hoses for visible failures.
2. Check any/all applicable fuses and relays.
3. Remove a/c delete pulley setup and get proper belts for crank to a/c, ac to PS unit. Install, adjust tension, start engine, listen.
4. Have shop vacuum system, convert to r134a (or use freon if available) and charge system.
5. Start engine and try to get it to kick on (assuming compressor and clutch are operational).
6. See if it holds charge / have shop use sniffer to find any leaks (or dye and uv light, etc)
7. Go from there

Tell me where I'm going wrong, and any advice is welcome and very appreciated! Will be my daughters daily driver, and although we are in Portland, OR area...going all summer with no A/C can be a bit brutal.

Thanks folks!
Doug

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 06 May 2017, 20:52

Put on the belt first, then try to A/C system. If it doesn't come on, jump the pressure switch , but only for as little time as possible, to see if the clutch engages with no noise, and the compressor comes on, again, with little noise. You are checking for bearing wear and clutch wear, here. I think ten seconds should tell you what you need to know, and do this at idle speed.. If the clutch and compressor are quiet, then take it to a shop for evac and a leak test. During evac, they can check for debris in the system. If there is some then you will have to replace the dryer and the expansion valve. If it doesn't leak and the system is clean, then, I would be safe and replace the dryer before recharge, but you could just go ahead and have it recharged.

dougburgy · Post by **dougburgy** » 08 May 2017, 14:15

Hey Azureblue! Great advice (as expected). I'm only one v-belt and paper clip away from knowing if my compressor/clutch might be good enough to take it to the next step (the shop). I appreciate the insight big time! My car has not been converted to 134a to date, and that looks like about a $200 kit to make that happen (plus labor). That being the case, I'm really considering using the Redtek 12a refrigerant I see online (with good reviews) instead of converting at this point. The 12a is compatible with lubricants, seals, o-rings, components, compressor already in place. Way cheaper than R12 freon that can be $40+ per can! Link to the 12a https://www.amazon.com/Cans-RED-Refrige ... redtek+12a

Thanks again, I'll post back as things progress...to maybe help others wanting to get their a/c up and running again.
Doug

Post by **jimmy57** » 08 May 2017, 14:34

1983 242 has no pressure switch originally. It has the thermostat the A/C knob sticks on on dash and maybe an overpressure cutout switch screwed onto receiver-drier next to radiator.
If there has been the full tilt Volvo R134a Upgrade kit installed many years back then it could have been changed from TXV to CCOT and then it could have accumulator and a pressure cycling switch to jump. If it has been converted with the cheapo kits then the charge fittings will have the adapters screwed onto them and there might be a label listing R134a if it were even installed and hasn't fallen off.
If it is converted it uses Ester Oil and not PAG.
Does it still have a York standing two cylinder compressor or has that been changed to Zexel or Sanden axial round compressor?

dougburgy · Post by **dougburgy** » 08 May 2017, 15:37

Oh boy...now I'm getting confused Jimmy57. But I'm sure I'll get my head around things. I'm nearly 100% positive that this has not been converted to r134a either by factory kit or cheapo retrofit. This is due to lack of sticker, lack of quick connect fittings typical of r134a, etc. Seems totally stock to me. But, to make sure, I've added a few photos here of dash, dryer and fittings, front and back of compressor (tight shots due to P.S. tower/mount). Does this help answer your questions?
EDITS: After a bit of googling, I see I have the York type upright compressor. Also, the GY109 switch on drier appears to be a low pressure switch part number. So it looks like I do have low pressure switch, even though it's a 1983. ??

Where would the high and low side service ports be on this model?

Thanks again, I'm getting closer to understanding what I have...and maybe how to evaluate what to do to get it working. Doug

dougburgy · Post by **dougburgy** » 08 May 2017, 15:42

updated last post with "edits"...couldn't see how to delete this.

dougburgy · Post by **dougburgy** » 09 May 2017, 17:25

Does anybody know for sure where low and high side a/c service ports are (for sure) on this 1983 with the old style York compressor? I've done exhaustive online searching, checked my Haynes manual (totally worthless), online volvo manual sources, and inspected vehicle. I think I have a fairly good idea, but still relatively confused. I believe it is the two ports at top/front of York compressor. I can't see any markings (such as suction and discharge) but from looking at manuals, I believe the driver side (usa car) port is low side/suction, and passenger side port high side/discharge. This is R12, so doesn't have the small/large idiot proof fittings, both are same. I will be hooking up manifold gauge set and vacuum pump, and want to make sure I'm going right way about it. Thanks! Doug

EDIT: OK, think I figured it out for sure. High side goes to condenser so it would be passenger side fitting. Low side comes from firewall (evap), so it would be the driver side port.

dougburgy · Post by **dougburgy** » 12 May 2017, 00:09

UPDATE:
I got a belt on, got my jump wire for pressure switch ready to go, turned ac and fans on at dash, and started it up. I've had the car for 3 years, and ac was disconnected since I've owned it (PO had a bypass kit to run PS pump direct from crank).

After starting I hurried to the open hood, to prepare to jump pressure switch wires to see if clutch would engage, and if it did, how the compressor/clutch sounded. To my amazement, the clutch engaged before I jumped the low pressure switch. And it ran essentially silently (or at least no noise louder than engine itself idling). Could this system really have charge/pressure in it already, and all it needed was a fan belt to work all this time? Well...I pulled one of the two wires off the pressure switch to see if the clutch would disengage. It didn't...it kept spinning. So something is up. Shouldn't pulling one of the wires off the pressure switch disengage the clutch, if the system was functioning properly? I'm not sure how the wiring should be on this car, or how to check to make sure things are wired correctly, etc. Any thoughts?

Not sure of the best next step. I'm anxious to pull a vacuum on it with pump and manifold gauge set, to see if it can hold vacuum (first step to establishing system is leak free) before having evacuated, adding appropriate amount of oil and refrigerant to see it can get to proper pressures and blow cold.

Thanks to any and all that have followed this thread, and can continue to assist in my pursuit of comfy summer driving!
Doug

Post by **jimmy57** » 12 May 2017, 07:35

It shows no evidence of conversion. Original York 2 cylinder compressor. The high side schrader valve extension is not fitted. It should have both service fittings showing to the front (another fitting next to the one shown). You need to get a mirror and look under the P/S pump bracket to see if the schrader valve is in place on the hose end adapter for the high side hose. You may find that it is open. The schrader valve is removed and the extension screwed on with a copper cone seal washer so you have the shrader valve fitting relocated a couple inches forward to clear the P/S pump bracket . Without that being done you wouldn't be able to get your gauges hooked up.
The switch on top of the receiver-drier is normally closed unless the pressure gets over 400 psi. The high pressure pushes open the contacts to cut off compressor before the pressure gets so high as to rupture a hose. This is a different switch than the ones on low pressure side that will be open unless the system has at least a little charge. That car does not use a low pressure switch, the thermostat switch on dash is used instead.

dougburgy · Post by **dougburgy** » 12 May 2017, 12:32

Hi Jimmy,
Can't tell you how much I appreciate you taking the time on this. Thanks again. As you can see from attached images, both service ports/schrader valves are there. Both seem accessible to me, although with PS belt in place, would be tight. I don't have a problem getting ac going while PS is not connected (not my only car) to allow more room there...and then put on PS belt once I'm blowing cold. If that matters. Wasn't completely sure what you meant about relocating high side schrader forward, etc. After viewing these images, and considering my flexibility with PS belt, do you think things look "ready to go" as it relates to hooking up manifold gauge set, etc?

I understand what you are saying about the "high pressure cut off" switch. However, the Volvo shop manual I found online is showing 1981+ years have a low pressure switch. Please see attached photo of that, with picture of receiver/dryer next to it. I just want to make sure I got this right. But from what I'm seeing, my car does have a low pressure switch (not high pressure safety switch). Thoughts?

As far as next steps go (and I'm sure there are many), what would you suggest? I'm guessing it would be good to pull a vacuum on this system, and see if it can hold it. If it can't, there will be leaks to track down obviously. I guess I can cross that bridge when I get there. I appreciate your input on next best steps so I don't get the cart before the horse, so to speak.

As far as oil goes. I know these York compressors (believe mine is 210 series, since it's a '79+ year) are popular for 4x4 guys that like to use them for onboard air compressors. That being the case, there is quite a bit of info on them out there on the interwebs. I have found some info on checking oil in the "sump" (different than oil in ac system), where you bend a wire a certain angle, stick it down the hole on right side (bolt/plug below the PS bracket ) and use as dip stick. I did that, just to make sure I'm not running it without lubrication. I did that, and only saw maybe 5mm on bottom of stick. My understanding is it should be more like 20-30mm on "dip stick". Not sure I did it just right, I'll research that some more. You have experience with this? If my compressor is good, I don't want to blow it up trying to find out if it's good.