P2 Turbo PCV System Servicing Options

[abscate]

Looks good. Take the time to remove and clean the starter connections until they are shiny and bright. Also the ground connection on th engine block

Remove those thermostat screws and put new ones in if you can get them, but just cracking them and putting old ones back will ensure an easier thermostat job.

Check your AC clutch gap w it's your alternator out , it's a lot easier to do either the shim fix ( Volvo approved) or the zip tie fix (Iowa MVS approved)

...must.....resist....advice,...on.....coil....

[prwood]

Looks good. Take the time to remove and clean the starter connections until they are shiny and bright. Also the ground connection on th engine block

Remove those thermostat screws and put new ones in if you can get them, but just cracking them and putting old ones back will ensure an easier thermostat job.

Check your AC clutch gap w it's your alternator out , it's a lot easier to do either the shim fix ( Volvo approved) or the zip tie fix (Iowa MVS approved)

...must.....resist....advice,...on.....coil....

Cleaned the starter connections and the ground connection on the engine block.

I actually replaced the thermostat (and coolant temperature sensor) about a month ago, so I should be set with those screws for a while. That being said, I just read here on MVS that 87C thermostats are recommended for turbos, and I replaced it with a 90C thermostat. Does it matter?

If my AC clutch gap is off, do I need to remove the compressor, or can I do the fix with the compressor in place?

Re: coil advice, are you talking about the advice you gave in the other thread, or do you have some other advice?

[Fataqui]

If your AC / clutch is really worn and you want to do the shim fix, then you will have to take AC / compressor out to fix the clutch cap. There simply isn't enough room to preform the repair even with the power steering pump and the alternator removed. Also from the picture you posted your wiring harness sleeve that goes to the ETM is awfully tore up, I would definitely replace the torn-up sleeve that protects the wiring on the ETM harness, especially where that harness goes between the engine block and that small starter support bracket on the rear of the starter. I say that because I have seen many ETM harnesses get shorted out there. As a side note... anytime I do a PCV job for a customer I always take that bracket off and reroute the ETM harness because of that concern. That bracket has a sharp edge, so sooner or later it tears through the ETM sleeve due to endless normal engine vibrations, leaving the wiring exposed to the sharp edge of that starter bracket.

[jonesg]

Looks good. Take the time to remove and clean the starter connections until they are shiny and bright. Also the ground connection on th engine block

Remove those thermostat screws and put new ones in if you can get them, but just cracking them and putting old ones back will ensure an easier thermostat job.

Check your AC clutch gap w it's your alternator out , it's a lot easier to do either the shim fix ( Volvo approved) or the zip tie fix (Iowa MVS approved)

...must.....resist....advice,...on.....coil....

Cleaned the starter connections and the ground connection on the engine block.

I actually replaced the thermostat (and coolant temperature sensor) about a month ago, so I should be set with those screws for a while. That being said, I just read here on MVS that 87C thermostats are recommended for turbos, and I replaced it with a 90C thermostat. Does it matter?

If my AC clutch gap is off, do I need to remove the compressor, or can I do the fix with the compressor in place?

Re: coil advice, are you talking about the advice you gave in the other thread, or do you have some other advice?

In a pinch I've repotted coils with epoxy but never been able to restore properly.(marine outboard)
Hollands junkyard has them on at least 20 volvo's, I was just there and forgot to snag a couple for myself.
I got a $250 alarm unit for $10....and every fuse I could pull.

[abscate]

Looks good. Take the time to remove and clean the starter connections until they are shiny and bright. Also the ground connection on th engine block

Remove those thermostat screws and put new ones in if you can get them, but just cracking them and putting old ones back will ensure an easier thermostat job.

Check your AC clutch gap w it's your alternator out , it's a lot easier to do either the shim fix ( Volvo approved) or the zip tie fix (Iowa MVS approved)

...must.....resist....advice,...on.....coil....

Cleaned the starter connections and the ground connection on the engine block.

I actually replaced the thermostat (and coolant temperature sensor) about a month ago, so I should be set with those screws for a while. That being said, I just read here on MVS that 87C thermostats are recommended for turbos, and I replaced it with a 90C thermostat. Does it matter?

If my AC clutch gap is off, do I need to remove the compressor, or can I do the fix with the compressor in place?

Re: coil advice, are you talking about the advice you gave in the other thread, or do you have some other advice?

Was I crazy or were your thermostat screws rusted up?? Maybe I mixed up pictures? I replaced with new screws with nice sharp Torx heads.

I thought AC shims could be done from above but post above says no, I will defer to that.

In our temperate climate, 90 or 87F shouldn't matter.

Same advice on coils...

[prwood]

Was I crazy or were your thermostat screws rusted up?? Maybe I mixed up pictures? I replaced with new screws with nice sharp Torx heads.

Yes, they are rusty, but I didn't have any trouble getting them off or back on when I replaced the thermostat. I torqued them to spec. It's pretty accessible though, even when everything is reassembled, so I could easily replace them at some point if needed.

In our temperate climate, 90 or 87F shouldn't matter.

At what point does it matter? We're going to be doing some road tripping through the southwest later this summer so I just wanted to make sure.

[JRL]

Make sure your throttle body is sparkling clean before you put it back together

[prwood]

Make sure your throttle body is sparkling clean before you put it back together

Yup. I had removed and cleaned the ETM last summer, so internally it was in pretty good shape. I did hit it again this time with carb cleaner and a toothbrush until all black deposits were gone. Reinstalled to the intake manifold with a genuine Volvo gasket and torqued to spec.

I also cleaned the intake and throttle externally with purple power and then wire brush. I forgot to take any pics of the inside of the throttle, but here's before and after pics of the intake and throttle.

Before

Intake and Throttle Before Cleaning.jpg (1.17 MiB) Viewed 2020 times

After

Intake and Throttle After Cleaning.jpg (1.52 MiB) Viewed 2020 times

The inside of the intake was sparkling clean which I attribute to the cleaning agents in the gasoline. I plan to do a second round of cleaning on the intake and engine block where the gasket will go just to ensure a clean seal when I put the new gasket on.

[Georgeandkira]

"Torx on the bottom ones would be great". The bottom bolts of what? .....the intake manifold? I thought those were nuts on studs which only needed loosening.

[precopster]

Nope they're bolts down there same as the top ones. Not a difficult job with a 1/4 inch drive and a "’wobbly" (universal jointed) socket holder.