Error Codes

Rubberfig · Post by **Rubberfig** » 14 Aug 2017, 19:01

erikv11 wrote: 14 Aug 2017, 09:28 Battery disconnect definitely clears the codes. Remove both wires and touch them together if you want to be certain.

All of the misfire codes likely come from the rear cam seal, which is blown out due to the clogged PCV and piping moisture and oil into the distributor cap. Pull the dipstick to relieve crankcase pressure, replace the cam seals (use Corteco or Volvo seals, do not use Elring or other cheap seals unless you are content to replace them again in 6 months) and clean out the cap when you are finished.

If you bought Bosch wires those are known to be troublesome and could be part of the misfire problem, there are very few wires that "work" with these cars. The best deal is Bougicord wires which are usually cheapest ordered online.

What plugs did you use? Bosch coppers should work just great, but what are they gapped?

I will clear the codes now, thanks for that useful info! As soon as I have access to star wrenches (which should be soon) I will be replacing the seal. I did the rubber glove test and it inflated, removed dip-stick from well and saw white smoke consistantly coming up. Do I need to be careful with anything more than normal when replacing the seal? Like is there a filament or something that should not get wet or touched.

I feel like the wires are not the problem, and would like to exhaust all other possible options before replacing the wires AGAIN.

I just used what the O'Reilly employee told me would work with the car. I have no idea what they are gapped to, and don't even know how to find out.

Rubberfig · Post by **Rubberfig** » 14 Aug 2017, 19:03

erikv11 wrote: 14 Aug 2017, 11:59 I always, purposely throw away the flame trap, it's on the checklist of first things to do when I get a non-turbo car.

Where would I find the flame trap? It sounds like something I might want to take off.

Rubberfig · Post by **Rubberfig** » 14 Aug 2017, 19:06

scot850 wrote: 14 Aug 2017, 11:13 Lots of good advice being given here. Cam seal especially the distributor one is probably the biggest effects on your car and caused by the PCV system causing over pressure in the crankcase.

Yes I did say you can delete the flame trap as when these engines age they blown more oil around and tend to block the small holes in the flame trap. i tend to run then in the cars I have as they were meant to be there, but like I said they are getting harder to find. Volvo S/V70 non-turbo in 98 used the same part.

Also the plug wires, you see the same recommendation is always Bougicord and properly gapped copper Bosch plugs.

You have a fair amount of work ahead of you but we are around if you need guidance.

Neil.

How many cam seals are there? I thought there were front and back seals, or intake and exhaust seals. (2 of each) I have a set of 4 seals, and might be replacing all of them if they aren't too hard to access.

Post by **scot850** » 14 Aug 2017, 19:23

There are 4 in total. 2 intake and 2 exhaust as you said. They can be a little tricky but there are threads on MVS with info on this.

flame trap I thought I mentioned earlier. It is between the throttle body and IAC valve and the intake manifold. It is connected by a short pipe to the throttle body if I recall. It is in a black plastic can about 1.5/' in diameter.

Neil.

Rubberfig · Post by **Rubberfig** » 14 Aug 2017, 19:33

scot850 wrote: 14 Aug 2017, 19:23 There are 4 in total. 2 intake and 2 exhaust as you said. They can be a little tricky but there are threads on MVS with info on this.

flame trap I thought I mentioned earlier. It is between the throttle body and IAC valve and the intake manifold. It is connected by a short pipe to the throttle body if I recall. It is in a black plastic can about 1.5/' in diameter.

Neil.

Thanks, Ill be able to replace at least one of the exhaust seals which I believe is the troubled one. How would I relieve the pressure upon the seals until I can replace the box? I was thinking maybe driving with the dipstick slightly pulled out, would that cause any harm to the engine?

Post by **scot850** » 14 Aug 2017, 19:38

No that is the normal recommendation for SHORT term pressure relief. I would tie a cloth around the gap loosely to reduce oil fumes from oiling your engine any more than already. I would suggest doing the PCV system before the cam seals or the danger is you may blow them out again. The cam seal I would be equally worried is the inlet cam rear seal behind the base of the distributor.

Neil.

Rubberfig · Post by **Rubberfig** » 14 Aug 2017, 19:47

scot850 wrote: 14 Aug 2017, 19:38 No that is the normal recommendation for SHORT term pressure relief. I would tie a cloth around the gap loosely to reduce oil fumes from oiling your engine any more than already. I would suggest doing the PCV system before the cam seals or the danger is you may blow them out again. The cam seal I would be equally worried is the inlet cam rear seal behind the base of the distributor.

Neil.

How long is short term? The part is in the mail now, and I don't plan on driving at all until I get that PCV fixed. I don't quite know which seal this is, but it is the seal I will be replacing.

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Aug 2017, 20:05

Like Neil said, there are some write-ups on this site that explain how to replace the rear cam seals, give them a read. There is one rear cam seal under the distributor cap (rear of the intake cam), and one rear cam seal under that circular metal thing, the cam position sensor, in the middle of your second pic (rear of the exhaust cam).

The front cam seals are much more work to replace, I wouldn't go there unless those seals are leaking. In fact, I never do.

I wouldn't drive more than a week or two if I was relying on the dipstick to dissiate trapped PCV fumes.

Be sure to clean out the ports into the block, when you replace the PCV.

Rubberfig · Post by **Rubberfig** » 14 Aug 2017, 20:31

erikv11 wrote: 14 Aug 2017, 20:05 Like Neil said, there are some write-ups on this site that explain how to replace the rear cam seals, give them a read. There is one rear cam seal under the distributor cap (rear of the intake cam), and one rear cam seal under that circular metal thing, the cam position sensor, in the middle of your second pic (rear of the exhaust cam).

The front cam seals are much more work to replace, I wouldn't go there unless those seals are leaking. In fact, I never do.

I wouldn't drive more than a week or two if I was relying on the dipstick to dissiate trapped PCV fumes.

Be sure to clean out the ports into the block, when you replace the PCV.

I will be sure to give them a good solid look, thank you.

Probably just gonna replace the rear ones by myself, the front ones I shall employ a friend to fix. They know a little more about cars than I do.

The part should be well recieved before 1 week is up, let alone 2 weeks.

Hopefully I will be clearing out all the tubes leading into and out of the PCV. Will I have to worry about any fluids leaking when im replacing it? Like coolant or oil or something that shouldn't be leaving (anything more than excess oil the PCV has trapped.

Post by **erikv11** » 14 Aug 2017, 21:45

There is also a long write-up on the PCV service, I am not sure you are aware of this but PCV service is not a simple job to be honest. You have to take off the intake manifold to access the oil trap (probably what you are calling the "PCV box"), so you will need at least an intake manifold gasket too. And the rubber hoses that connect to the oil trap must be replaced - they will be rotten, broken and clogged on your car.

Here is the oldest and most complete thread how-to for PCV: viewtopic.php?t=28487
And here is a more recent one that includes tricks to do it more cheaply: viewtopic.php?t=53448

If you go with the cheaper alternatives, be sure to read to the later part of the thread as while the first ideas about how to do it work, they are not the best ideas - there are improvements figured out along the way.