Highest Cold Cranking Amperage Allowed

[Oka]

What would be the highest Cold Cranking Amperage (CCA) and the Cranking Amperage (CA) that is allowed for a 2001 XC70?
I have always used higher CCA for my other cars which works well. I live in Anchorage, Alaska.
Went on line, for Volvo, I see from 600 CCA through 900 CCA.

[oragex]

Anchorage, Alaska, the question makes good sense

I think Cold amps are around 6-650amps originally. I think the most the better so the engine doesn't loose speed at crank. If you can find a 7-750 cold amps even better. Space/size may be an issue but you may relocate the battery

But the most helpful would be a 0W-30 engine oil. Even a 0W-40 (it will be a little less fluid at extreme low temps). This would help immensely at -40F, probably you won't need a block heater. A 5W-30 synthetic (Mobile1, etc) should be good enough down to -20F or so, but below that a 0 grade will make the difference. In case the car has been running on mineral oil, switching to synthetic always causes important oil consumption for the first 2-3 oil changes (oil level to be checked every 2 weeks) and the oil filter clogs very quickly - it will need replaced once or twice in 2 months.

While there, these cars are sensitive to PCV clogging and having a cold engine running at idle for a few minutes is about what clogs the PCV faster. I'd have the engine idle for about 10 seconds, then drive gently 1-2 minutes, then give it a few accelerations to rise the coolant temperature faster.

[abscate]

You can't really hurt anything with 'excess cold cranking amps' The car will draw the current according to Ohms Law and no more than that.

Best strategy when I lived in cold country (Northern counties of NY - not quite AK but I did experience -59F once in the 70s (I think thats still the NY state record) we used to keep a spare battery in the house and carry it outside to jump. Having a battery at reasonable temperatures works wonders

[jbeebo]

I grew up in a cold climate. Here are my strategies for cold starts in the depths of winter.
-plug in the car's block heater
-buy the biggest battery that will fit. The european models came with a bigger battery than N.A. ones, but the battery tray is the same. Measure the tray and buy to that size. As abscate mentioned, there's no such thing as too many CCA on the battery label.
-abscate is spot on, warm batteries are happy batteries. A heated battery blanket is recommended.

[Oka]

. . . But the most helpful would be a 0W-30 engine oil . . .

Currently I have 730CCA. Would like to get the 810CCA I saw.

One aspect you brought up is oil. I may have to start using lighter oil in the winter.
The only time I really need this extra cranking time is always in the morning if the car
is left outside. At work, if I did not go on errand at lunch, which I usually do, I just
remote start it and let it run for about ten/twenty seconds and that makes a whole
difference when leaving at the end of the day. One other reason for the extra time
and more umph is the heater is left on at the half mark and set to the windshield to
melt the ice before using the wiper. We are now in our low thirty's so I'll go to the 0W30.
Don't use synthetic on the Volvo, just the 'regular' oil.

Thanks for the oil suggestion.

[Oka]

I grew up in a cold climate. Here are my strategies for cold starts in the depths of winter.
-plug in the car's block heater
-buy the biggest battery that will fit. The european models came with a bigger battery than N.A. ones, but the battery tray is the same. Measure the tray and buy to that size. As abscate mentioned, there's no such thing as too many CCA on the battery label.
-abscate is spot on, warm batteries are happy batteries. A heated battery blanket is recommended.

Plug-ins are not that common in Anchorage. The XC has it and I have never used it. People in Fairbanks or father north depend on them. The past three winters in Anchorage has been warmer than expected.

An 810CCA (+/-) battery with 0W30 oil would do me good. Found ones that would fit the space.

Thanks for the info.

[Oka]

You can't really hurt anything with 'excess cold cranking amps' The car will draw the current according to Ohms Law and no more than that.

Best strategy when I lived in cold country (Northern counties of NY - not quite AK but I did experience -59F once in the 70s (I think thats still the NY state record) we used to keep a spare battery in the house and carry it outside to jump. Having a battery at reasonable temperatures works wonders

I have a really nice 600A jumper that has done wonders for me. This jumper is really "wicked". it's one of those that has some buttons in it's back for a really dead cold battery. Have used the jumper one time the Bimmer was left out in the dead cold for a long time, and where no other jumper worked. This beast started it with the 'suplimental' buttons. Also, I have batteries from the other undriven cars.

Will get a higher CCA battery and change to a 0W30 oil.

Thanks you.

[oragex]

Don't forget not to leave the cold engine idling, even though it's tempting. Idling for long at cold will cause deposits on the PCV system. I prefer letting it idle 10-30 seconds, then drive gently 2 min, then accelerate faster to raise the oil temp quicker. But that's just me