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Re-programming key fob

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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precopster
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Re: Re-programming key fob

Post by precopster »

And if it's a 2005 model as I stated in my previous post the DIM will inform that starting is prevented and starter will not turn. These are not the symptoms the poster has described therefore we need to move on from the key.
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ThomGuy
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Post by ThomGuy »

JRL:

Glad to hear that the programming doesn't go away!!! (REALLY GLAD!) Quick question for you - when a message about the immobilizer appears on the dash, is that something that has to be reset by a dealer or is it something we can reset manually ourselves???

ThomGuy
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Post by ThomGuy »

JRL:

Glad to hear that the programming doesn't go away!!! (REALLY GLAD!) Quick question for you - when a message about the immobilizer appears on the dash, is that something that has to be reset by a dealer or is it something we can reset manually ourselves???

JRL
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Post by JRL »

That's a different issue, you may need a new ignition ring. Not expensive
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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

ThomGuy wrote: 23 Oct 2017, 00:00 JRL:

Glad to hear that the programming doesn't go away!!! (REALLY GLAD!) Quick question for you - when a message about the immobilizer appears on the dash, is that something that has to be reset by a dealer or is it something we can reset manually ourselves???
Note to anyone reading, ThomGuy is asking a hypothetical question (is not the issue he is having).

The answer to that question is no, if you have another key with a working/programmed transponder, or, a faulty antenna ring is replaced, nothing needs to be reset. Just use the working/programmed key and the 'immobilized condition' will clear by itself.

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mrbrian200
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Post by mrbrian200 »

If it's been sitting for a really long time -a year or more- you may just need fresh gas. This would involve draining the tank and flushing the old gas out of the lines. The fuel system is one way without a pressure return back to the tank. So draining the tank by itself won't do it. There's probably around 1/3 gallon between the tank and the engine. It would take forever to run this through by just cranking on the starter, and you'd end up with a flooded engine that might not go even when the fresh gas did work it's way up there.

I'm not sure what the procedure for this would be considering the PWM controlled fuel pump. On an older vehicle I would disconnect a fuel line and run it into a gas can then bypass the pump relay one way or another. Possibly somebody floating around here knows a procedure short of having VIDA which is probably the way Volvo says to do it (activate the fuel pump within VIDA).

randombradley
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Post by randombradley »

Wow, first post on this forum, after "all" this time (< 2 years) as a student of & passive participant in the forum. Felt the need to chime in here, based on first hand experience, to disspell apparent assumptions and affirm relevant facts. The "start prevented" message combined w/ starter failing to turn over, with all electronics working, resulting from "un-marriage" of transponder key and CEM, is not a plague isolated to 2005 MY P2s. I acquired my 2007 S60 with just 1, floppy transponder flip-key.....which I temporarily remedied w/ healthy internal parts from an identical used/salvaged flip-key mechanism. But my adhesive materials or methods were inadequate and the re-assembled flip key gradually came apart until completely falling to pieces at a rest stop 8 hours south of home - half way thru a 16 hour road trip - while turning the key enough to lower/raise a window before a nap. Not sure how the transponder key became "un-married" from the CEM as a result of this, as all the internal parts seemed to still be in tact - and the transponder chip seemingly still protected within the plastic casing. No matter what I tried though, including reassembling the key and holding it together with the grip of my hand, the car was destined for it's first visit to the dealer, with the "start prevented..." message showing on the DIM at every attempt to turn the key normally in ignition to start. Sure enough, according to the very non-transparent dealer technician (Fredericksburg, VA), a new transponder key (top part w/ key blade - not key body with remote) and programming to the car, were needed. Who knows if this really was the *real* problem and solution (they did attempt to charge me for 2 hours labor - $400 all inclusive - reduced by $140 and refunded a couple months later after I called them out on it), but the car started fine and the key was firmly reassembled when I got it back 24 hours later. Back to the main points though....the issue here is not key related if the starter is engaged but not turning over, when turning key in ignition (reaffirming what several have suggested). I've also had the joy of working on another P2 (2003 S60) that had been sitting over a year, at the mercy of mother nature - with plenty of dirt, leaves, rust, insects, rodents, moisture, and rust/corrosion, all eating away at the integrity of a previously healthy S60, while it's battery life helplessly drained away. Successfully worked thru a slew of issues to get it started finally AND even running :o . Also dealt with other non key-related starting issues on my own S60 :roll: . With a dead battery, yes the starter won't engage, but the electronics, if they show any signs of life, will exhibit whatever flickers of energy the remaining battery charge allows. The starter *may* even engage, if the resting charge in the battery falls just short of the 11.5-12V mark. As others have suggested, the fault in this case most definitely lies within the fuel delivery, engine/mechanical, igntion/starting circuitry and components not related to the key, or even in the air delivery or cooling systems....i'd suspect there are multiple faults in one or more of these subsystems within the car, given the relevant details and background info provided. hooking up the car to VIDA w/ a DiCE, for a proper diagnostic reading, is a great place to start and eliminate wasted time, energy, and sanity on guesswork. you may or may not be handed the answer/s clearly and without ambiguity, but at worst your troubleshooting will be refocused in a productive direction. i realize the thread is old enough that the original poster's issue may have either been resolved or otherwise put to rest, by now, but still thought my input here could be helpful to others who may confront a similar set of circumstances.

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