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Freezing Temps

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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cuhfs
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Freezing Temps

Post by cuhfs »

Just bought a 2003 XC70 needing a new head-gasket and am getting the head milled and ready for re-installation. Prior owner used water instead of antifreeze so now I do not know if any water is still in the block and temperatures outside are getting below 32 degrees. I did open the drain on the block near the passenger firewall but that seems up kinda high. Is their a drain at the bottom of the block I need to open? IS this an issue I need to be concerned about?
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oragex
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Post by oragex »

There is a drain at the bottom of the radiator, trough a hole in the subframe. It is very fragile (google up). While there time replace the thermostat ($100) if it's original.

cuhfs
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Post by cuhfs »

Radiator is drained. Is that all I need to do for winter freezing prevention of the block?
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Rattnalle
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Post by Rattnalle »

The coolant hoses on the oil cooler on the back of the block is probably the lowest place you'll reach. I'd disconnect that then pour some coolant in the system to mix with whatever is left, even though it sounds like to can't run the water pump.

The radiator drain alone will only give you about a third of the total coolant. Radiator + rear of the block about two thirds together.

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Post by abscate »

Rick..is car inside or outside? If its in just putting an old light bulb under it, turned on , will keep it from freezing
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cuhfs
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Post by cuhfs »

Outside unfortunately. Car can't be run head is at machine shop. any easy way to pump in antifreeze to bottom end of engine block?
04 C70 Convert Auto
06 XC90 Auto (ORE) #401/800
06 S80
05 S80
12 S60
04 XC70 Auto (Parts car)
96 850 Wagon Manual Trans & 98 V70 (gone)
95 850 Sedan Auto Trans (gone)
04 XC70 Auto (gone)
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Post by oragex »

Rattnalle wrote: 11 Nov 2017, 09:43 Radiator + rear of the block about two thirds together.
Are you sure it's not all the coolant with these two? Technically these should drain the whole volume, speaking from a design point of view.

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Post by Georgeandkira »

1) The head is off so just pour some down the water jacket. It'll swish around, mix and protect your block.

2) The hoses to the oil cooler and the cooler itself would benefit from having their water either purged or diluted with antifreeze.
You'll have to remove the crimped clamps holding the hose(s) to the cooler. This will drain the pipes which feed the cooler.
Blow out as much water as you can with lung pressure. Use a length of scrap hose to force antifreeze into the pipes from above.

3) Make certain the water is out of your heater core too.

4) I'm not sure about this but....I thought heads on overhead cam engines didn't get milled.
Removing material will change the valve timing IIRC.

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Rattnalle
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Post by Rattnalle »

oragex wrote: 11 Nov 2017, 12:10
Rattnalle wrote: 11 Nov 2017, 09:43 Radiator + rear of the block about two thirds together.
Are you sure it's not all the coolant with these two? Technically these should drain the whole volume, speaking from a design point of view.
From experience they don't although I agree that the should. Somewhere around 5,5-6 liters out of the 8 will pour out through those two on my car. Currently my coolant is purple because of that, new red plus left over old blue (explicitly mixable though).

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