Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

I doubt you've studied this thread before proceeding.

Did you separate the pin where the wire solders in on the other side? Have you measured idle voltage between pin 1 & 3 on the contactless side.

I've heard of people talking to their cars but never someone quoting them

[LiThiuMElectro]

Well my car is pretty vocale about his problem

Yup separated pin #2 where I should solder, unfortunately hmmmm I did not have AAALLLL the information I needed to do the job including measuring voltage BEFORE taking everything appart, I watched a couple videos on the internet they never mentioned it. I though it was pretty much straight forward.

To be honest I don't fully understand how to mesure the pin 1 & 3 other than I need my multimeter and I know how my multimeter works. Car need to be started ? in position II ? Also people mentioning turning the magnet until it read around 1.35v but the magnet fits in the D shape screw... do I need to open the butterfly manually and when I hit the sweet spot I screw everything in place ?

No I did NOT read all the 30 pages I quited after 10-12, I did my fair amount of research on the internet, but this whole "adventure" has been so demoralizing that I am drained and hopeless...

[precopster]

Just turn on ignition wait 8 seconds for the throttle to reset and measure. Over 1.55 volts or under 1.24 volts and you have to adjust the magnet in relation to the shaft. Get it to around 1.4 volts. It's not an exact machined tolerance fit and the magnet turns about 8 degrees on the shaft. That 8 degrees is a whole lot as the throttle flap operates only over about 70 degrees (about 20 degrees at idle and 90 degrees at full throttle) so you are throwing the calibration out by more than 10% if you get it wrong.

Sacer's documentation has no mention of it (this way they make people of all skills believe they can do this)

I should have asked before but what's a "Space ETM"? Can it do a lunar landing?

Also did you use a silicon based sealant on the pins? Drywall sealer shorts the board.

[LiThiuMElectro]

Lol I like you Precopster you make me laugh in this shitty puzzle that I am stuck in thanks a lot for that.

Tomorrow's weather will be better so I will try that, just to be 100% clear. I just turn the magnet around on its axis while the nut is off and the butterfly "flap" should stay in its resting position ? or I need to push the flap until I get around 1.4v and then secure the nut on the screw inside the magnet ?

Also nothing is sealed right now, because I know better than being cocky and assuming that I was able to do that fix first try lol XD I will seal everything down when I get the car running and I am 100% certain that everything is fine.

I bought some high temperature silicone base sealant in a local car parts shop.

[precopster]

Measure the voltage first then I can explain. You are not ready yet grasshopper

[LiThiuMElectro]

will do thanks

[LiThiuMElectro]

Measure the voltage first then I can explain. You are not ready yet grasshopper

1.18 volt to be Honest magnet looks like a tight fit... Barely turns on it's axis


Turned the magnet Fullmetal clockwise and I am getting 1.39

[LiThiuMElectro]

Fuck me too much testing car battery is Dead reads 9.4

Edit; ok I got the car to run and start but its running at super high rpm on start up 1500 2000 will rev down a little bit and go back up note that nothing is solder in place Yet

Getting code P1026 I would assume my voltage on the sensor is too high

After testing magnet all the way up is like 1.55 all the way down 1.39

Update 3 or 4 : started the car weird idle when I gave gas it was shooting up a bit car is warming up and sitting at more or less 800 rpm. Il if I give gas goes up but does not come down right away sometimes maybe because everything is not solder in place and vibration is making the contact move. Will solder and update after

Update 5 ( Iguess ) : soldered everything and tried the car, https://youtu.be/0XUnB2HiV2U I can here the car idleing up and down a tiny bit maybe the throttle is not 100% clean as I thought. Sealed everything up, I am letting everything "dry up" until tomorrow night.

[precopster]

Just turn on ignition wait 8 seconds for the throttle to reset and measure. Over 1.55 volts or under 1.24 volts and you have to adjust the magnet in relation to the shaft. Get it to around 1.4 volts. It's not an exact machined tolerance fit and the magnet turns about 8 degrees on the shaft. That 8 degrees is a whole lot as the throttle flap operates only over about 70 degrees (about 20 degrees at idle and 90 degrees at full throttle) so you are throwing the calibration out by more than 10% if you get it wrong.

Above ^^ just to recap.


Please note forum rules. I don't want you to get kicked after I've put in all this effort

Pic shows a magnet turned clockwise in relation to the shaft. This would result in a very low voltage such as your 1.18V Notice the flat sides are not parallel.

There is around 0.3V adjustment either way; enough to stop the throttle from working at all.

Video looks good apart from the oil change reminder and the lack of code reset of the airbag system.

[LiThiuMElectro]

EEgggg what rule did I break -___- damn my bad, was not my intention to do so.

I sealed everything off and I am letting the silicone cure for 24 hours, I don't know why I am getting oil change reminder I did the oil change less than a month ago and the airbag alert was there when I bought the car cannot reset it with my OBDII :S