1994 850 Turbo Error Code Help

vofosho · Post by **vofosho** » 29 Dec 2017, 09:01

Hello!

First time posting, hope you can help.

Although this is our second Volvo, we are just starting to try and self-fix. We have moved from the land of plenty (Vancouver Island) to the frigid tundra (Ontario) where older Volvos are few and far between, as are the people that work on them. It's getting to be expensive so we are wanting to start doing whatever we can ourselves, it's fun to learn too!

So problems: last night it's -25C and the car wheezed a bit starting up, toughest it's been this winter so far. It does not seem to have a problem to warm up quickly and without issue, this is it's first ever winter and it's handling it like a champ (like I'm surprised!

). About 15 minutes later the Lambdo warning light came on, never seen this before. So this morning I run the diagnostic codes and find several. These are the results I have found, please advise if they are correct and what the heck they mean.

Thank you!

A1: Transmission
124 - Mode selector faulty or short circuit to ground

A2: Fuel System
413 - EGR temp sensor signal faulty or missing

A3: ABS
141 - Faulty pedal sensor, shorted to ground or supply
142 - Faulty brake pedal switch, open or short
*The ABS lights have come on intermittently since we bought the car and different mechanics have said it's a common issue that is not serious. Would these both concern that?

A7: Combined Instrument
122 - Outside temp sensor open circuit or shorted to 12 volts
*I have noticed the temp sensor warning light in the dash comes on intermittently lately.
231 - Ventilation damper motor position sensor open circuit or shorted to 12 volts

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 29 Dec 2017, 21:47

The 231 is just for the climate control - if it is working and you're happy with it (I.E. you haven't become a Man-sicle) ignore it for now.

As far as ABS goes - worst case scenario is you still have braking - just no ABS modulation.

If it were me, I'd erase all the codes and then give it a day or two and pull them again. Some of these may be old or not current. Sounds almost like you may have had a ground that wasn't sufficient.

You don't want to be doing anything you don't have to at this time of year - it has been COLD...

Post by **scot850** » 30 Dec 2017, 11:17

Low battery could cause a lot of these issues with the cold you have over there. Do you have a block heater that works? If so use it at these temps.

Turbos don't like the cold as much and the intercoolers can freeze in the really cold temps you are having. This can cause chaos with the warning codes, and in worst case the car (if auto trans) will not move until the car has warmed up fully. You may want to add a piece of cardboard zip-tied behind the grille until the temps go to above -10C.

Neil.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 30 Dec 2017, 17:18

Just reading this post sent shivers up my spine.

It always sounds colder in celsius...

vofosho · Post by **vofosho** » 02 Jan 2018, 10:02

scot850 wrote: ↑30 Dec 2017, 11:17 Low battery could cause a lot of these issues with the cold you have over there. Do you have a block heater that works? If so use it at these temps.

Turbos don't like the cold as much and the intercoolers can freeze in the really cold temps you are having. This can cause chaos with the warning codes, and in worst case the car (if auto trans) will not move until the car has warmed up fully. You may want to add a piece of cardboard zip-tied behind the grille until the temps go to above -10C.

Neil.

Our battery is brand new, but we do have a small draw but it is starting no problem still. Our model didn't come with a block heater, but we keep meaning to pick up an oil pan heater. What will the cardboard do?

vofosho · Post by **vofosho** » 02 Jan 2018, 10:04

wizechatmgr wrote: ↑29 Dec 2017, 21:47 The 231 is just for the climate control - if it is working and you're happy with it (I.E. you haven't become a Man-sicle) ignore it for now.

As far as ABS goes - worst case scenario is you still have braking - just no ABS modulation.

If it were me, I'd erase all the codes and then give it a day or two and pull them again. Some of these may be old or not current. Sounds almost like you may have had a ground that wasn't sufficient.

You don't want to be doing anything you don't have to at this time of year - it has been COLD...

it is damn cold! haha. I will erase the codes first and see what happens. Fingers freeze up in minutes outside right now so it would be nice if that fixed it.

Post by **scot850** » 02 Jan 2018, 10:37

The cardboard reduces the amount of cold air that can get to the radiator so the car will heat up quicker and also reduce the chance of the intercooler freezing, even when driving. Warning here is to watch the engine temp. Don't recommend using it above about -10C.

Most cars will have a small current draw I think around 10 mA. Some have a little higher.

I have seen the stick on pads advertised on e-bay and Amazon. I have a friend who has used one on a Volvo and says it works fine. The important thing is to get it adhered well, so clean the bottom of the oil pan well and de-grease before attempting to stick.

You may well find the original Volvo block heater is still available for the older cars. It is obsolete for the newer versions of P80 and P2 chassis. Bolts into a hole at the back of the block with one bolt. I have seen them advertised on Volvo websites, but it doesn't mean they are still available. Worth a try! Otherwise you could pull one at a junkyard once it gets warmer. If you do that you need a heat conducting paste to get the best from the joint between the block and the heater for heat transfer. The paste is the type used for computer heatsinks on the processor chips.

Good luck!

Neil.