Leaky Oil Cap

[ir637113]

Out of curiosity, what is everyone's opinion on replacing the PCV with a catch can? Debating on whether that might make this easier for me or not since this is no longer a daily driver and is just gonna be for putting around town

[RickHaleParker]

Oil galley brushes, Marval Mystery Oil, some people add Simple Green to the oil. Whatever you do, change the oil as soon as you get the passages unclogged.

[ir637113]

Oil galley brushes, Marval Mystery Oil, some people add Simple Green to the oil. Whatever you do, change the oil as soon as you get the passages unclogged.

Sounds like a project that'll have to wait until I get taxes in. Damn kids making me have to wait an extra couple weeks to get my taxes

[ZionXIX]

Be careful, the problem may not be just the cap or gasket, but the crankcase pressure. Frequently the drain passages from the PCV oil trap box into the block, are completely coked up and clogged.

What's the best way to clean those passages? Robert said something about pipe cleaners, but I'm having trouble visualizing that, especially considering the build up I ran into was almost rock hard.

He has also mentioned using a medium sized zip tie. The plastic should be rigid enough to break up debris while remaining flexible enough to navigate the passage way. I did not clean the oil passage during my pcv change because the box and and the block looked very clean. I regret not cleaning it and you may have to get creative.

[ir637113]

Be careful, the problem may not be just the cap or gasket, but the crankcase pressure. Frequently the drain passages from the PCV oil trap box into the block, are completely coked up and clogged.

What's the best way to clean those passages? Robert said something about pipe cleaners, but I'm having trouble visualizing that, especially considering the build up I ran into was almost rock hard.

He has also mentioned using a medium sized zip tie. The plastic should be rigid enough to break up debris while remaining flexible enough to navigate the passage way. I did not clean the oil passage during my pcv change because the box and and the block looked very clean. I regret not cleaning it and you may have to get creative.

I'll give it a shot, but I'm doubtful. What I did remove had to be done with a hammer and a screwdriver

[WhatAmIDoing]

Some kind of pressurized solvent may help. Not too sure what would work though and be safe to get in the engine. Carb/brake cleaner might help. Mineral spirits might due it too, or diesel. Maybe applying heat. But again, I don't how safe any of these practices would be.

[ir637113]

Just out the oil cap on and noticed that it slides around just a touch... Could that be part of my issue as well?

As an aside, what would be a good short-term fix to get me by about 2 weeks while I'm waiting on taxes? Probably just gonna totally redo the PCV since I'm gonna need to be there (I'm kinda worried I knocked something loose and it's clogged my new oil trap. I'd rather be safe than sorry). But not driving it isn't really an option, so I'm trying to keep it from leaking as much. I've heard sometimes just popping the dipstick can help?

[erikv11]

I had one totally blocked too. First I used drill bits, then some cheap, bendable (and disposable, you can basically ruin a couple to get it done) wire brushes from Harbor Freight to bend around that corner https://www.harborfreight.com/engine-br ... 69020.html. Make sure it is clean by hooking a tubing to it and blowing through it, you should hear bubbles in the oil pan. Expect the crud to go into the oil pan and dump the oil when finished.

You don't need Volvo parts on the PCV to get it running well, just that the aftermarket ones may not last very long. There are several write ups on this site about using generic parts for all but the hose to the cam cover (Volvo) and the little hoses from the oil trap box to the block. The oil trap can almost always just be cleaned out and reused, unless it is 20 years old I wouldn't worry about re-using the trap.

I hear ya on whether or not it is worth it to fix. If the RMS isn't totally blown, some ATP AT-205 might help to slow the leak after the crankcase pressure is relieved. That's assuming the port is still blocked.

[ir637113]

I had one totally blocked too. First I used drill bits, then some cheap, bendable (and disposable, you can basically ruin a couple to get it done) wire brushes from Harbor Freight to bend around that corner https://www.harborfreight.com/engine-br ... 69020.html. Make sure it is clean by hooking a tubing to it and blowing through it, you should hear bubbles in the oil pan. Expect the crud to go into the oil pan and dump the oil when finished.

You don't need Volvo parts on the PCV to get it running well, just that the aftermarket ones may not last very long. There are several write ups on this site about using generic parts for all but the hose to the cam cover (Volvo) and the little hoses from the oil trap box to the block. The oil trap can almost always just be cleaned out and reused, unless it is 20 years old I wouldn't worry about re-using the trap.

I hear ya on whether or not it is worth it to fix. If the RMS isn't totally blown, some ATP AT-205 might help to slow the leak after the crankcase pressure is relieved. That's assuming the port is still blocked.

Thanks for the advice. I think I should be getting my refund this week, so I'll order the URO kit here soon. Harbor freight is maybe five minutes from my office, so I'm gonna swing by today and see

[ZionXIX]

Interesting thought. Has anyone ever thought about drilling and tapping a hole for a small drain plug where the PCV channel meets the bottom of the pan and the weird "J" turn? This would potentially enable you to inspect the channel during oil changes and facilitate cleaning it every time so you never have PCV issues again. Centering the drill bit is probably the worst part though.