1989 Volvo 240 running rough

DylanTheVillain · Post by **DylanTheVillain** » 22 Feb 2018, 20:42

Hey everyone, this is my first time asking for help on this site, so forgive if my questions and problems are spaced out. I am the proud owner of a 1989 Volvo 240 which has been running strong for 2 years, but has been running poorly for the last week. No check engine light and no OBD codes have come up.

Symptoms
-The symptoms are mainly shaking/sputtering of the engine at idle and acceleration and loss of power. It sounds like my car might just stall out when I come to a stop or change rpm. I also noticed the engine oil dipstick and valve cover smell like gasoline.

What I have done so far.
-Since my check engine light doesn't work, I checked the OBD-I port sockets 2 and 6, with engine off and key in run position, for any logged codes and came up with 1-1-1 on both twice (so no faults). Adjusted the throttle linkage correctly. Cleaned out the throttle body, which was filthy, I noticed that the intake manifold appeared wet. I believe this is because of a leaking fuel pressure regulator. I have also cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner in hopes it would help. I have also listed the parts below I have ordered and will be replacing this weekend.
-new fuelinjectors
-new fuel pressure regulator
-new fuel pump relay
-new distributor cap and rotor
-new spark plugs and wires
-new engine oil and filter

What I suspect
-insufficent spark or no spark
-running rich
-fuel pressure regulator leaking gas into intake manifold
-leaking fuel injectors
-faulty fuel pump relay

The car will turn over and start, but I am reluctant to do so in fear of igniting fuel vapors in the oil.
What is the safest way to change the oil and filter in light of this? Should I bite the bullet and try warming up the engine before the change, or try draining the oil with engine cold (it's like 30 degrees F out here by the way) which will take awhile and might not get all of the oil out? Also do you think I am on the right track for fixing these issues?

Sorry for the long thread. Please let me know if you need more information to go on and I would welcome any advice to my problems.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 22 Feb 2018, 21:06

I also noticed the engine oil dipstick and valve cover smell like gasoline.

Gas in the crankcase, Stuck piston ring or clogged Crankcase ventilation.
When was the last time the Crankcase ventilation was serviced?
What engine do you have, 2.0 or 2.3?

DylanTheVillain · Post by **DylanTheVillain** » 22 Feb 2018, 21:20

I have the 2.3. The crankcase ventilation was serviced a year ago because the crankcase pressure got so high that it blew out the rear cam seal and dumped out like a quart of oil. Replaced the oil separator/breather box, rear camshaft seal and cleaned out the flame trap. Are there any other parts that should be cleaned or replaced?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 22 Feb 2018, 21:34

Do you have a compression tester or can you get access to one? If so do both a wet and dry compression test and post the numbers.

I suspect you may have a stick piston ring, which lets gasoline slip pass the rings and into the crankcase. If you do have a stuck ring, you maybe able to unstick it with a Sea Foam soak.

Should I bite the bullet and try warming up the engine before the change, or try draining the oil with engine cold?

It obviously been running like this for some time without going Kaboom!. Warn the engine and drain.

DylanTheVillain · Post by **DylanTheVillain** » 22 Feb 2018, 22:34

I can probably get my hands on a compression tester this weekend. I’ll post the numbers when I get to it. I hope it’s not a stuck ring and I find that hard to believe because I have used sea foam in the fuel, crankcase, and sipped through vacuum line leading to intake before every oil change since I’ve owned it. And ya if it hasn’t blown up yet then 5-10 min of warmup shouldn’t harm it. Thanks for the quick reply!

93Regina · Post by **93Regina** » 23 Feb 2018, 20:56

DylanTheVillain wrote: ↑22 Feb 2018, 22:341989 Volvo 240...haking/sputtering... smell like gasoline

CPS maybe, CTS most likely.

DylanTheVillain · Post by **DylanTheVillain** » 25 Feb 2018, 15:08

Update

I replaced all the parts listed above and I noticed that the gap on the old spark plugs were around .040" instead of the recommended gap of .028-.032". The spark plugs also appeared to be fouled. Next the old rotor cap had lots of carbon build up on the contacts. I drove the car around a few miles once everything was replaced and I believe I fixed the issue.
My car no longer stutters and shakes at idle and all other speeds. In hindsight throwing money and parts at the problem was not the best approach, but in the end the problem was solved. Thank you everyone for the replies.