1996 850 GLT No crank no start

Post by **tryingbe** » 01 Mar 2018, 11:55

New starter time.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Mar 2018, 14:34

I’ve got an almost new one in my parts thread , but don’t be in BOSTON until a week from Tuesday.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Mar 2018, 23:00

Check the grounds on the starter and make sure it getting voltage to both the starter and solenoid. I have seem bolts looses up, wires come loose or burn out and cause the symptoms you have. If you can get to the starter, Jump the "50" terminal to the positive battery cable. See attached file.

Post by **abscate** » 01 Mar 2018, 23:26

You pretty much have to remove it to service any of that stuff , Rick, and once it’s off, next stop, rebuild electrical shop for the smart money.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Mar 2018, 23:45

He should be able to get to the solenoid without pulling a bunch of stuff off. I'm suggesting he do some diagnostics at the solenoid before he pulls off. the starter In other word, make darn sure it not an electrical issue before pulling the starter.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Mar 2018, 05:35

I'm thinking it could be the pigtail between the motor and solenoid but I can't see dealing with that on the car.

cxf · Post by **cxf** » 11 Mar 2018, 22:38

UPDATE: I picked up a new aftermarket starter that is a favorite on Rock Auto($65+/-) and also had good reviews on Amazon. The installation of this was somewhat of a nightmare. Much had to be removed to make enough room for the r&r. Removing the fan from the fan shroud required dealing with rusted torx head screws that the correct tip would no longer grip enough to undo. On the bottom 2 I had to use long nose vise grips to grab the fastener by the side of it's washer head which took a lot of time, aggravation and swearing. Upon reassembly I tossed those screws and used 1/4" hex head lags with washers instead.

The starter topmost bolt was rusted/ welded into place(galvanic reaction) Finally got it to start turning with a breaker bar and pipe extension. Ended up that the bolt didn't turn but broke instead. Luckily with all the bolts on starter removed I was able to get a long screwdriver onto the starter body and whack it loose with a 3# hammer. Once the starter was out I had to drive a new bolt through the top starter mount hole to clear all the corrosion out so the new bolt would pass through.

After reassembly the car fired right up. I am going to try removing the remains of the broken bolt from the original starter and see what an auto electric guy would charge for rebuild of it. If reasonable will keep on shelf just in case. If I need to do this again on this car I would attack it this same way since I replaced the torx with hex head but on a different car would prob remove the entire radiator/ shroud assembly.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 11 Mar 2018, 22:49

Make sure those hex lags are stainless unless you want another problem to add to your list.

That said, if the plan is to keep the car short term, I wouldn't bother.

cxf · Post by **cxf** » 11 Mar 2018, 22:56

Stainless not needed the fan frame is plastic and the shroud it stews into is plastic also. Plain old plated should be fine. Hex head will make for easy disassembly.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 11 Mar 2018, 23:27

Galvanic Corrosion requires two things.

1. Two dissimilar metals.
2. A Electrolyte.

The electrolyte is most often salt water with road salt being the source of the salt. Take away any of the two and Galvanic Corrosion is inhibited. After installing the new starter, coat the connection with Liquid Tape or Plastic Dip to keep spray from the road off the connection.

1996 850 GLT No crank no start

Re: 1996 850 GLT No crank no start