2007 XC70 Starting Problem When Below Freezing
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volvomainer
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 5 March 2018
- Year and Model: 2007 XC70
- Location: Maine
2007 XC70 Starting Problem When Below Freezing
Thanks for reading my post. Here is my Volvo XC70 starting problem...When temperatures drop below freezing at night, after sitting all night, the car typically will not start on the first crank cycle in the morning...however, if after the first crank cycle, I let the car sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then retry cranking again, then let the car sit again for 10 to 15 minute, then retry cranking (repeat crank - sit - crank 4 or 5 times - the car will eventually start....). No codes, new battery, new spark plugs, new temperature sensor. An interesting point... we had a few nights this winter here in Maine with morning temperatures of negative 25 deg F (neg 32 deg C) and the car started on the first crank cycle! Any thoughts?? Thanks again!!
- oragex
- Posts: 5347
- Joined: 24 May 2013
- Year and Model: S60 2003
- Location: Canada
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Hello. How many miles on it? Did it had recently a new timing belt?
If so, this is just one of the things that may happen viewtopic.php?f=9&t=58219
It is also wise to have the codes read by an independent Volvo garage, search on local.google.com Be aware that main dealers are sometimes shady and may replace parts for no reason.
I'd also suggest having a garage reading the fuel pressure while cranking but don't let just replace the fuel pump as these are very durable Volvo. An ELM327 with the Torque app on an Android/Apple device also should be able to read this pressure.
If so, this is just one of the things that may happen viewtopic.php?f=9&t=58219
It is also wise to have the codes read by an independent Volvo garage, search on local.google.com Be aware that main dealers are sometimes shady and may replace parts for no reason.
I'd also suggest having a garage reading the fuel pressure while cranking but don't let just replace the fuel pump as these are very durable Volvo. An ELM327 with the Torque app on an Android/Apple device also should be able to read this pressure.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- mrbrian200
- Posts: 1554
- Joined: 20 January 2016
- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T FWD
- Location: Northern Indiana/Chicago
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This one smells like a loose/bad solder joint or a fishy ECT sensor (fuel delivery issue).
1. connect any OBDII diag tool you can get your hands on. Before attempting to start the vehicle in the morning read the engine temperature as reported by the ECT sensor - it should be within 3-5 degrees of ambient air temp. If it is something ridiculous like -50c or lower when it's actually -25c outside replace the sensor. When that reading is too low, the ECU meters too much fuel for conditions while trying to start which floods the engine.
2. If the ECT is ok but you verify a fuel pressure problem: If the PEM was at some point relocated to the spare tire well inside the trunk, and you have access to AC power outside where the car is, next time try warming the PEM up a little with a hair dryer before trying to start/restart it and and see if it makes a difference (this would indicate bad solder joint connection inside the PEM).
3. IF the ECT and fuel pressure are OK, you may have a problem with the evap system. But I doubt this will be the case. I'm betting on 1. or 2. above.
As Oragex stated, DO NOT go willy nilly replacing the fuel pump. The pump Volvo uses is very robust, in most cases people who replace it are wasting their money as the problem ends up being elsewhere.
1. connect any OBDII diag tool you can get your hands on. Before attempting to start the vehicle in the morning read the engine temperature as reported by the ECT sensor - it should be within 3-5 degrees of ambient air temp. If it is something ridiculous like -50c or lower when it's actually -25c outside replace the sensor. When that reading is too low, the ECU meters too much fuel for conditions while trying to start which floods the engine.
2. If the ECT is ok but you verify a fuel pressure problem: If the PEM was at some point relocated to the spare tire well inside the trunk, and you have access to AC power outside where the car is, next time try warming the PEM up a little with a hair dryer before trying to start/restart it and and see if it makes a difference (this would indicate bad solder joint connection inside the PEM).
3. IF the ECT and fuel pressure are OK, you may have a problem with the evap system. But I doubt this will be the case. I'm betting on 1. or 2. above.
As Oragex stated, DO NOT go willy nilly replacing the fuel pump. The pump Volvo uses is very robust, in most cases people who replace it are wasting their money as the problem ends up being elsewhere.
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