My Cam Seal Replacement Thread

Post by **jtp** » 15 Mar 2018, 07:39

Replacing: FR motor mount, All cam seals, TB and pulleys. Water pump. Done a lot of reading and watching videos (shout out to Robert!).

Since I’ll get stuck at some point and start a thread anyway next weekend, I figured why not get that thread going now with some of the questions I already have as I’m prepping:

- Is there a fool proof way to set the new cam seals at the correct depth when replacing them? I’ve done a timing belt but never cam seals so I will have no feel for this aspect of it. I would rather buy the special little seating tools than screw that part of the job up, but if there’s a trick that’s free I’ll take it.

- Would you recommend doing the crank seal and oil pump seals while I’m in there or am I probably good at 144K miles? I don’t think they’re leaking, but there’s been oil everywhere on the front of the engine from the exhaust cam down for two months so I don’t really know for sure.

My hesitation is I don’t want to screw up the timing on the engine of course, cams will be locked, but I’d rather avoid the crank seal all else being equal unless it’s likely to go in the next 70K Miles

Post by **erikv11** » 15 Mar 2018, 07:48

Seating the seals: On the rears I tap them in with a 36 mm socket. Not foolproof but very nearly so. On the fronts I screw them in with a cut off piece of PVC pipe and a metal plate, with holes in it for the cam sprocket bolts. Foolproof. The keys to remember are that (1) you want the seals to be flush, and (2) it's almost always ok if they get pushed in too far, but I try hard to avoid that. Both the socket and the PVC pipe are slightly OVERsize, so they stop moving when they get to the head surface. Keeps the seals flush. Remove the serp tensioner when you start working on the timing belt side, it makes maneuvering in there much easier. Only two 12 mm bolts.

Crank seal, oil pump seal: wouldn't touch them, never have. Especially not with only 144k. Strictly a need to replace basis and you will have to look very hard on the forums to find case(s) where it was needed.

Post by **jtp** » 15 Mar 2018, 08:43

erikv11 wrote: 15 Mar 2018, 07:48 Seating the seals: On the rears I tap them in with a 36 mm socket. Not foolproof but very nearly so. On the fronts I screw them in with a cut off piece of PVC pipe and a metal plate, with holes in it for the cam sprocket bolts. Foolproof. The keys to remember are that (1) you want the seals to be flush, and (2) it's almost always ok if they get pushed in too far, but I try hard to avoid that. Both the socket and the PVC pipe are slightly OVERsize, so they stop moving when they get to the head surface. Keeps the seals flush. Remove the serp tensioner when you start working on the timing belt side, it makes maneuvering in there much easier. Only two 12 mm bolts.

Crank seal, oil pump seal: wouldn't touch them, never have. Especially not with only 144k. Strictly a need to replace basis and you will have to look very hard on the forums to find case(s) where it was needed.

Roger. Thanks Erik

I wouldnt have thought to remove the serp tensioner so that will hopefully help a lots. Limited space over there is the worst thing about it for me. I have big hands.

I will probably just get the tool for the front seals based on your description. I can round up a 36 for the rears

Post by **abscate** » 15 Mar 2018, 11:34

Crap - I still have kahls cam seal tool in my garage - reminds me to send it back this weekend. If I find it Ill send pictures

Post by **kahl** » 15 Mar 2018, 18:04

Thank you sir, let me know what the postage costs. I will be helping a member in April for TB, WP, seals, etc.....