2000 S70 Stalling, Failure to Start, Crankshaft Sensor Code...

Caberguy · Post by **Caberguy** » 26 May 2018, 12:27

A couple of days ago my S70 (2.4 normally aspirated) stalled on the way home, after having generally been running fine for quite some time.

For a few minutes after that, it would turn over, sometimes start, sometimes not. When it would start it would idle roughly and then stall out. Try to give it gas stall out.

After a few minutes it started up and I was able to drive a few miles, and then it happened again.

After the third or fourth cycle of this it threw a P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A code.

I ordered a new crank position sensor (Denso OEM) and installed it this morning... no joy.

It's starting and idling roughly then stalling, or not starting at all (just like before)... hasn't thrown any other codes, and only threw that P0335 once.

Ideas?

Still has the original white label ETM at about 124K miles, have had some surging and other minor problems associated with that, but never any idle or starting problems. I know that needs to go soon, but don't know if that could be causing this.

I see there's another thread about a similar problem right now with the same model and year, and folks seem to think it's the fuel pump/relay? It seems that this could be causing my problem too... but what about the P0335.

Post by **Clemens** » 26 May 2018, 15:41

Do you have pressure at the fuel line schrafer valve? Does it smell like gas if you crank it a few times?

Caberguy · Post by **Caberguy** » 27 May 2018, 05:54

I haven't been smelling fuel after cranking it. But I checked, and there is fuel pressure at the rail. I don't know how much, because I don't have a gauge.

I noticed that when I turned the key to position II, the ETM did it's little click/click thing, and then was making a consistent high pitched hum. Is that high pitched noise normal, I don't remember?

Post by **abscate** » 27 May 2018, 07:18

The ETM should make an 8 second hum, followed by a loud clack, then be quiet - at least to my ears.

When you get rough running you have to ignore spurious codes that come up - not useful. The car is depending on smooth clocking to identify cylinders and mis-timed parts, all bets are off once its rough running.

The ME7 cars need 50 psi at the rail, solid. You can't judge this by looks - you could try bypassing the fuel relay with a jumper to see if that helps.

124k is late in life for an ETM but with no ETS light, its probably working ok.

I do have a 99 NA white label from my parts car if you get the a point where you want to try a swap

Caberguy · Post by **Caberguy** » 28 May 2018, 08:10

Started first try when I jumped the relay. Hopefully that does it for a while (at least until after I close on my house).

Thanks guys.

Caberguy · Post by **Caberguy** » 28 May 2018, 08:13

I mean... after I replace it. Not just going to leave the jumper in there.

Post by **abscate** » 28 May 2018, 12:47

If you search the Fora on the KAE brand relay, you’ll skip it

Volvo only.

I think I still have two left from parts cars in parts forum