A/C Dryer R and R- 1998 V70

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 18 Jun 2018, 06:27

I have a 1999 V70, 252,000 mi. I recently had to replace a blown-up compressor and I want to replace the dryer and re-fill. I did my '99 S70 dryer a few years ago but for the life of me I can't remember if I dropped it down or lifted it out after disconnecting it from the mount. When I had the compressor on the V70 replaced at my indie it appears he partially removed the quick disconnect from the dryer (1/3 of the battle). I know the nut on that dryer is tough...I recall having to use two breaker bars opposed to each other in order to break it free.

If anyone can lend some insight it would be greatly appreciated. I am going to order the dryer and an o-ring for the quick disconnect and nut, install and pull a vacuum on the system before installing refrigerant and oil.

Post by **scot850** » 18 Jun 2018, 08:24

I gave up trying to remove the pipe to the compressor from the dryer as it was literally welded together with the dissimilar metals.

I removed the flexi-pipe and the dryer so I could then mount it in my bench vice to get them separated.

I dropped them out from below as there is more room. Remember to make sure the mounting bracket gets hooked back into the inner fender completely when re-installing.

Neil.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 18 Jun 2018, 10:12

Neil has the right idea on getting the dryer off. There is enough room to drop it down below the bumper to a point where you can get to the nut after you fight the spring quick connect off of the other pipe. I used a giant crescent wrench on one side and a big pipe wrench on the other to bust it free.
The quick release is a bigger bear since you have no leverage against it but rocking the dryer back and forth and walking it out can be effective. Push comes to shove, since you are replacing it anyway, you can always just cut the pipe off.

If the compressor detonated internally you need to replace the orifice tube as well, it is its own special treat to get loose.

...Lee

volvooh · Post by **volvooh** » 18 Jun 2018, 11:35

Thanks Neil and Lee. Good thing for me is the quick release is already done. The bearings in the old compressor started to go so it didn't completely grenade. I had a mechanic down the street put it in... the way the '98 bolts up v. the way the '99 bolts up makes the whole thing a whole lot more complicated, and I thought I'd share the fun.

He was pushing to replace the dryer for me, which I politely declined but it appeared in the process he already started by releasing the quick connect. Either that or it blew apart, which I kind of doubt. So it appears I just need to lower it and undo the big nut on top.

I assume I will need an oring for both the quick connect and the nut?

Post by **scot850** » 18 Jun 2018, 12:12

I would recommend replacing the quick connect o-rings with Volvo parts if you can get them. Hopefully only doing this job once for the next 10 years so worth the cost. Trying to remember if there was a o-ring on the flexi-pipe to dryer. It may be supplied with a part you get, but OE part would be better. Can't recall now what was in there when I did that last year on my 00 V70 base.

I had to remove the whole pipe as I just could not get the flexi-pipe nut to turn and it was just collapsing the tube on the top of the drier. Fitted it to the bench vice to get enough leverage to turn it loose.

Although a pain, it may be worth considering Lee's caution on replacing the orifice tube.

Neil.

Post by **JimBee** » 18 Jun 2018, 15:35

To remove the large nut on the flex pipe to dryer, I cut the nipple it attaches to at the dryer. That gives you a smaller hex nut that you can clamp in your 4 inch vice, then get a pipe wrench with an extension (I used a length of 1" EMT) to turn the large nut.

Getting it apart is half of the fun, but cutting it off like I described will make it easier. There is an o-ring in that fitting. Before moving on to the next step, leave the smaller hex nipple in your vice and hit the threads in the large nut, that's now removed, with PB Blaster. Work the large nut back on to the smaller hex nut still in your vice until the threads run together smoothly.

If you don't do that, you can't know when the large nut bottoms on the new dryer nipple because the threads will go together so hard. It's easy (as I found out) to think you've bottomed on the o-ring but don't get it quite tight enough. As others have said, you don't want to take this apart again and do it over. If I were doing this again, I would also use teflon tape on those threads to ensure smooth retightening.

The $25.00 dryer (Partsgeek?) I used came with new o-rings for both the large nut to dryer and 2 for the slip pipes to the quick connect. Use a little PAG oil on them, they'll be fine. Volvo dealers I checked with didn't have those o-rings any longer; they just reuse the originals if they look okay, or pick something out of their assortment kit. All o-rings need to be the quality that will stand up to refrigerant and the PAG oil.

There's also a discussion on MVS about which PAG oil to use and HOW MUCH in your new dryer. (Find out how much your mechanic put into the new compressor while installing it and go from there. There should be a tag on the compressor that indicates the total quantity for the AC system. Again, there's discussion of all this on MVS.)

I believe, to change out the orifice tube you'll need to unlock the springlock (quick connect) fitting at the firewall. The rest is fairly easy from there. Then there are two types of orifice tubes. I think there's also a discussion on MVS about them. Ozark Lee has an opinion on which to use.

BTW: Autozone has the complete kit with orifice tube tool you'll need for AC repairs.

While you have it apart, you might want to check the connections at the condenser for leakage, which is visible if there is any. This would be the time to disconnect the fittings and clean them up, and install new o-rings.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Jun 2018, 02:23

The 99 drier I still held by a round compression clamp which hooks in to the frame member,so you unbolt the top hex bolt (easy to snap off the jammednut in the frame member, FUN!),loosen the clamp , then drop it down

It isn’t too hard TO release the line to the rear of the compressor at the compressor end, then you can go to work on the canister nut on the bench.

You can add PAG to the drier, remembering that Zexels “Pag100” brand is a PAG 46 compressor oil. I did not make that up. Oil amount isn’t too critical. I’ll look up Volvo amount for drier replacement. Did the indie oil the compressor after replacement?

Replace every Oring you touch. The Scantech brand have worked fine for me across three makes of car for a decade now. Torque on fasteners holding in Oring AC fittings is non-critical, the Oring does the sealing, the fastener holds it in place.

The orfice tube in the 1999 is in a mid line connection between the strut tower and the engine. It’s tightin there. Two open end or crows feet help.

Post by **JimBee** » 20 Jun 2018, 11:49

One more point on the dryer flex hose. Before removing the old dryer if you haven't already, carefully note the hose's orientation to the top of the dryer. I haven't worked on 99 so not sure if you have any post installation options to get at the large flex hose nut to loosen it to change its angle. That's not an option on the 850; once the dryer is set in place and the springlock connected, the flex hose needs be at the proper angle, within maybe a couple of degrees, or you won't be able to get the flange end to relax flat against the port at the back of the compressor.

If it doesn't properly align on the 850, the springlock connector needs to come apart to get the dryer back on bench to realign the hose.

ADDING OIL DISCUSSION
This recent discussion might help....
viewtopic.php?t=81113

and: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=70909