2006 S60 2.5T Wont Start - No crank.

[Eddienorgard]

My 2006 Volvo S60 2.5T won't start. Weirdest thing. Was working fine up until this morning. All lights and instrument panels, radio, etc comes on but the car doesn't crank. If you try several times, you might be lucky to have it start no problem! Tried to jump the car but that didn't help. The battery is not old enough to be the issue. But the weirdest part is that it doesn't crank and that it will start no problem if you're lucky. Anybody experience this? I'm hoping it's something easy to fix.

[mrbrian200]

The small spade terminal/wire to the solenoid on the starter is known to be subject to dirt and corrosion. That circuit is fed through a fuse and relay in the underhood fuse/relay block (labeled MA1). I would start here.

1. Check fuse #6 on the upper side of the fuse block (the group of smaller fuses closest to engine on the fuse block). If the fuse is ok, then:
2. Wiggle or Disconnect/reconnect the small wire at the starter solenoid (it's just a spade terminal/lug that pushes on) a few times and see if that restores electrical contact. If that works you can go on your merry way for now, but you will want to block some time out in the near future to clean this connection better so it doesn't happen again. Bulb/dielectric grease isn't a bad idea on this connection as rainwater and salt spray can be drawn through the radiator and lands in this area.

If that doesn't work, report back. If you know how to use a multimeter, we can probably get you through it. You would be checking for voltage on that small wire, relays, the main high current battery cables. If not I would recommend hiring a local mechanic. The starter, control, and power circuits on this car is comparable to any other modern vehicle. Any experienced mechanic should be able to sort it pretty quickly.

[mrbrian200]

...when I had the lower charge pipe off mine last year to replace the throttle body, being aware that this connection might be a problem down the road, I soldered the wire crimp on the back of that push terminal, sealed the back side of the connector with electrical tape and shrink tubing to about 6 inches down the wire, then packed the terminal/connector with dielectric grease to in an effort to keep moisture and salt from eventually deteriorating this electrical contact. Also it's not a bad idea to close up the gap on the push terminal (part attached to the wire) with pliers so that it grabs/holds onto the spade terminal on the starter solenoid firmly. It's unlikely that I'll ever have trouble with it.

[FCPEURO]

It's very common for the B+ cable nut to be a bit loose.

Remove it, clean the contacts and reinstall.

[Botbasher]

And once you get it all cleaned and tight.... this is my favorite way to protect it, forever!!!

http://www.backwoodssolar.com/products/ ... minal-goop

Kind of like a latex rubber for electrical contacts. We used it on our battlebots battery terminals to protect against flying material and vibration. Worked awesome!!

Cheers!!

K "latex...mmmm" S

[FREEBUSINESSES]

I have a 2.5T in this case, XC90, suddenly stopped cranking after short stop at store, Had to have it towed, battery was fine, headlights all interior lights come on as normal, radio OK, A/C clutch, and fan, nothing seems out of place other than won't start, so had it towed home, checked starter by cleaning contacts at cable, no difference, so replaced with new starter, checked old starter and it was indeed bad, solenoid would activate, but no turning of gear. So with new starter, still won't crank, so what else could cause this, seemed obvious to be starter, but new one won't crank either, no voltage to the spade terminal, but I do have adequate 11.9VDC at starter cable connection. So with no spade voltage when turning key, I exchanged starter relay, checked fuses, so I am stumped, any suggestions?

Thanks

[mrbrian200]

You'll need a voltmeter/test light to sort this any further: need to verify battery voltage at the relay on pin marked 30 (hot at all times), and 12v across pins 85-86 only when the key turned to the start position. Relay has markings on it showing which pins are what number.
If it is determined that voltages are present/at the correct times at the relay, and you're sure the relay is good/correct PN, then you'll need to trace the wire that runs between the relay to the starter solenoid.

[FREEBUSINESSES]

Thanks, there is no voltage on pins 85-86 when ignition key is in start, so that would make sense as to why the relay is not enabling power to the starter as it will crank if I jump 87 to 30, so where is these pins connected to, the ignition switch, if halo or key were somehow not working, would this cause same issue of no power to 85-86.

Thanks a million, can't be too many things between the ignition switch and starter relay, right? I checked ignition yellow wire has 12VDC on it, red wire is same, when I turn ignition to start, voltage transfers to the yellow/white wire, so looks normal. ??? Blue wires have no voltage on them, so I assume these are ground wires.

[mrbrian200]

If the halo (transponder antenna) weren't working you'd get a message on the dim saying something to the effect 'start disabled, try again'.

Both of the wires in question, 85 and 86, run to the CEM. One is a 12v feed when the ignition is turned to 'start'-KPIII, the other is a ground connection that grounds back through the CEM instead of directly to the chassis.

So either 12v isn't being supplied 12V when the ignition is turned to start, or the ground side is broken either somewhere the harness or inside the CEM. I do not know which wire is which, but it appears from what you've said so far that you know how to use a voltmeter/test light to figure this one out.

This is on an '06. Sometime mid way through this model year the seal design underneath the cowl (where the windscreen wipers are) was changed to keep water out of the top connectors of the CEM. So.. 'early' '06s have the old cover/seal that allows water to penetrate into the cabin which is known to cause corrosion at the connectors on the CEM. Later MY06's+ have the newer seal design that isn't subject to this. I don't know off hand what the chassis number cutoff for the old designs is. The issue you're having might be in line with corrosion at the CEM connector(s). It could be a break in the harness, or a problem inside the CEM.
If it's a terminal corrosion issue you'll want to get a handle on it/not just try to bypass the CEM to activate the starter relay: eventually more circuits become affected that can render the car inoperable whether the starter cranks or not.

[cn90]

FREEBUSINESSES,

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